tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9127325172833360922024-03-13T22:35:04.772-04:00An Exercise in Hospitality Adventures with Cocktails & FoodA semi-weekly blog, traipsing blithely through the fields of drinkery & cookery.Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.comBlogger50125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-84426182125832942772012-11-09T20:09:00.000-05:002013-03-27T20:14:06.198-04:00Feels Like Fall<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">As the leaves start to change and the temperature drops (admittedly later than it ought to), I always find my preference for beverages turns towards aged spirits and heavier, more robust flavor combinations. There is something very comfortable about a richly-flavored (often spirit-forward) libation at this time of year, when everything slows down just a little bit.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">The palette of ingredients that comes to mind is wide and varied, featuring many of the items with which I so love to play. Well-aged Brandies, Rums, Whiskies and Tequilas form a sturdy backbone of flavors. Fortified wines like Sherry or Madeira, bitter Amaro, herbal distillates such as Suze or Chartreuse, fragrant Vermouth and Chinato can delicately (or forcefully) bring exciting elements of taste. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Seasonal produce - Apples, Figs, Pumpkin or Pears - make for toothsome delights, particularly when combined with aromatic spices like Allspice, Cinnamon and Ginger. Base sweeteners change too - now is the time for full-bodied Honeys and complex Sugars; wonderful when balanced with souring agents like fresh Verjus or housemade Shrub. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">I considered these feelings (and the <em>many</em> ingredients that inspire them) extensively when selecting and designing the drinks that would appear on our new Fall Cocktail menu at Catherine Lombardi. Here's one of my favorite creations; dark and rich, with an earthy undertone of coffee-like aromas. Served over a large-bore ice ball, it's the perfect thing to slowly savor as the sun sets on summer...</span></div>
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<strong><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Rare Earth</span></strong></div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">½ oz. Rhum JM Ele<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">v<span style="font-family: "Calibri", "sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">é</span></span></span> Sous Bois<br />½ oz. Ron Zacapa 23yr Rum<br />¾ oz. Amaro Averna<br />¾ oz. Pedro-Ximenez Sherry<br />½ oz. Verjus<br />2 d. TBT Xocolatl Mole Bitters</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia;"><em>Combine ingredients in a mixing glass with ice & stir. Strain to a Rocks glass over a large-format ice cube or sphere.</em></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">Whether you mix one up at home or swing through the bar for a round or three, be sure to let me know how you like it (or any of the other delightful concoctions on-offer)! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">Cheers!</span>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-45321752953745746082012-10-10T03:35:00.000-04:002012-10-10T03:35:25.253-04:00R(h)umbullion! <h4 style="text-align: left;">
Or, "A Crazy, Criminally-Fun Shift"</h4>
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On the last Sunday of September, the bar was overrun by pirates. And not just any pirates, but a quality crew of sarong'd scalawags, comprised of such inestimable personages as Julie Reiner, Brian Miller, Ryan Liloia and Garret Richard. To be fair, we invited them aboard our boat, enticing them further with a whole roasted Pig and the fabulous distilled nectars of Martinique's <a href="http://www.rhum-jm.com/" target="_blank">Rhum JM</a>.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xTQ5h0-k9UE/UHOyzMXnO0I/AAAAAAAAA-Y/xSIG_gcqC_M/s1600/Gang%2527s+All+Here.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xTQ5h0-k9UE/UHOyzMXnO0I/AAAAAAAAA-Y/xSIG_gcqC_M/s400/Gang%2527s+All+Here.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The theme of this epic gathering was a bold inland incursion (to the wilds of New Jersey) of the weekly event known as <a href="http://www.facebook.com/#!/TikiMondaysWithMiller?fref=ts" target="_blank">Tiki Mondays with Miller</a>, formerly hosted at the island stronghold of <a href="http://www.lanikainy.com/" target="_blank">Lani Kai</a> in NYC. As with past examples of Tiki Monday, a menu of tropical libations selected by Captain Miller was on-offer. Accompanying these delicious beverages was a complimentary tasting of Rhum JM's complete portfolio of Rhum Agricole, which were also the principle spirits used in the evening's potions.</div>
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While I love drinks of all sorts, readers here may note that I have always had a soft spot for all things R(h)um and it's most tricked-out champion: Tiki. Therefore, it should come as no surprise that I was stoked to be involved with this event. </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Rf2lTxb5VX0/UHPu9MrpS0I/AAAAAAAAA-0/AhhGPbtTS2g/s1600/Limes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="134" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Rf2lTxb5VX0/UHPu9MrpS0I/AAAAAAAAA-0/AhhGPbtTS2g/s200/Limes.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three minutes into the Lime Massacre</td></tr>
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As I prepared for the arrival of our guest crew, the spent shells of Limes, Grapefruit and Pineapples piled up around me - too numerous to count. [<em>Not true, actually. I hewed through 268 of the former, 70 of the next and 8 of the latter, but the theatrical version sounds better. Besides, it's my job to keep track of these things.</em>] A profusion of new housemade ingredients filled my refrigerators (vying for space with our sizable collection of such things) and an abundance of Rhum was arrayed on the backbar and speed rails.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gG53G4kGRM8/UHO0J07zg6I/AAAAAAAAA-g/QrJePB0rujc/s1600/579736_10100228249597880_2083106412_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="187" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gG53G4kGRM8/UHO0J07zg6I/AAAAAAAAA-g/QrJePB0rujc/s200/579736_10100228249597880_2083106412_n.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bar prep, now with 400% more Pirate!</td></tr>
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As Julie, Brian, Ryan and Garret stepped behind the bar, they hefted insulated chests smuggled across the Hudson, brimming with ingredients rare and forbidden: fragrant syrups, spices and orchids. Together we festooned the <a href="http://www.catherinelombardi.com/sle/cl/index.asp" target="_blank">Catherine Lombardi</a> bar with pirate colors, mixed up batches of a few final ingredients (Don's Mix, Spices #2, &c) and cut a not-so-miniature mountain of various garnishes before donning sarongs and war paint for a festive rumbullion with no quarter offered...</div>
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And what a shift it was! Julie and Brian manned the forward bar station (the helm), while I got down and dirty in the service bar (the poop deck). Ryan and Garrett, along with my faithful barback Allison, moved tirelessly back and forth down the line of cannon, putting out (and occasionally starting) fires wherever necessary.</div>
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As they arrived, our guests were treated to a potent glass of punch in the form of a classic <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/06/mind-tail.html" target="_blank">Scorpion Bowl</a>, prepared with (in a slight twist on Trader Vic's <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000O05CTU/ref=dp_olp_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1212441634&sr=1-8" target="_blank">1946 recipe</a>) JM's Blanc and Ele<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">v</span><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">é</span></span> Sous Bois Rhum Agricole. To accommodate both the sheer size of the bowl (three recipes worth!) as well as the time it would spend over ice, we served it over cracked cubes derived from the 3"x3" molds we ordinarily use for ice balls. </div>
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With their initial tipple finished, our guests were able to select from five classic Tiki cocktails as well as an original one developed by Julie in honor of Lani Kai and the great times it inspired while open. Captain Miller's menu read as follows:</div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><strong><u><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">MAI TAI</span></u><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></strong></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">(Trader Vic, c. 1944)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">This drink truly is outta this world…<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">mai tai roa ae</i>!!<o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><em>Rhum JM Blanc, 12yr Demerara
& Dark Jamaican Rums, </em></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><em>Lime Juice, Orgeat, Orange Curacao<o:p></o:p></em></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><u><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><strong>THREE DOTS & A DASH </strong></span></u></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><u><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"></span></u><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">(Don The Beachcomber, ci.
1965)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Peace of mind is what you will achieve after
just one sip of this.<o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><em>Rhum JM Eleve Sous Bois &
Guatemalan Rums, </em></span></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><em>Lime & Orange Juices, </em></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><em>Acacia Honey Syrup, Velvet Falernum,
Don’s Spices #2, Angostura Bitters<o:p></o:p></em></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><strong><u><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">DONGA PUNCH</span></u><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"> </span></strong></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"></span><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">(Don the Beachcomber, c. 1937)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">“A gully in a field” is where you might wind up
after a few of these.<o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><em>Rhum JM Eleve Sous Bois, Lime
Juice, </em></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><em>Don’s Mix, Dale DeGroff’s Pimento Bitters<o:p></o:p></em></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;"></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><u><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 19.0pt;"></span></u></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><strong><u><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 19.0pt;">LANI KAI
SLING</span></u><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 19.0pt;"> </span></strong></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 19.0pt;"></span><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 19.0pt;">(Julie
Reiner)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 19.0pt;">A tasty tiki tipple in honor of our old ship
& all those that sailed on her.<o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">
<em><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Rhum JM Blanc</span><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 19.0pt;"> & 3yr Demerara Rums, Lime & Pineapple
Juices, </span></em></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><em><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 19.0pt;">Grenadine, </span></em></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><em><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 19.0pt;">Cherry Heering, Cointreau, Benedictine, Angostura Bitters, Club</span></em></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><strong><u><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">DON’S
BEACH PLANTER</span></u><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;"> </span></strong><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;"></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">(Don The
Beachcomber, c. 1937)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">Too many of these is what did
in tonight’s guest of honor.<o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;"><em>Rhum JM
Eleve Sous Bois & Dark Jamaican Rums, Cognac, </em></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;"><em>Lime & Pineapple Juices, Passion
Fruit Syrup, Angostura Bitters, Absinthe<o:p></o:p></em></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><em>
</em></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><strong><u><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">HAWAII KAI TREASURE</span></u><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"> </span></strong></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"></span><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">(Mannie “Blackie” Andal,
Hawaii Kai Restaurant, NYC, c. 1960’s)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">You know how pirates love their buried
treasure!<o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS Mincho"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><em>Rhum JM Blanc, Lime & Grapefruit Juices, </em></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS Mincho"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><em>Coco
Lopez, </em></span></span><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS Mincho"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><em>Acacia Honey Syrup, Orgeat, Blue Curacao</em></span></span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bCLfagcp0mE/UHUY6T7fR7I/AAAAAAAAA_I/PevZNmQXBYA/s1600/DaBum.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bCLfagcp0mE/UHUY6T7fR7I/AAAAAAAAA_I/PevZNmQXBYA/s200/DaBum.jpg" width="125" /></a>The turnout was <em>mai tai roa ae</em>; full of friends from New Jersey, New York and other ports of call. Our house regulars were out in force, complimented by a delightful contingent representing the Tiki Mafiaaarrrgh and a few special guests turned up quite unexpectedly. Imagine my delight when, looking up from a particularly long and complicated order ticket, I saw none other than Jeff "Beachbum" Berry and his lovely lady standing at my bar. Many thanks to the Bum for dropping anchor in 'Jersey; likewise to the merry motley of guests who dropped in for a drink or six. </div>
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Finally, much love and a major mahalo to Julie, Brian, Ryan and Garret, without whom none of this would have been possible. It was an honor and a pleasure to pull a shift on your ship; may its colors never be struck.</div>
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Cheers & Mahalo!</div>
Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com2New Brunswick, NJ, USA40.4862157 -74.451818840.4379087 -74.5307828 40.534522700000004 -74.3728548tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-17310602404773964142010-06-19T13:48:00.003-04:002010-06-19T13:51:29.185-04:00A Convoluted Narrative; With Swizzles!<div>As the summer season hits a stride, it occurs to me that we haven’t revisited one of my favorite types of hot weather libations in quite a while: <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/05/swizzle-solution.html">Swizzles</a>. <br />
<br />
Well, quite frankly, we haven't revisited <em>anything</em> for altogether too-long, but that's neither here nor there. So while there are no shortage of formulas that might benefit from such a treatment, a truly brilliant one springs to mind (pretty easily considering I just enjoyed two of them in a row) and I thought I might jump back in to share it with you, good reader.<br />
<br />
I was introduced to this delightful draught sometime last year at a <a href="http://www.kaiserpenguin.com/come-to-thursday-drink-night/">Thursday Drink Night</a> event: the <a href="http://sloshed.hyperkinetic.org/2009/04/21/chartreuse-swizzle/">Chartreuse Swizzle</a>. As might be expected when discussing something which arose from the weekly cocktail symposia held there, from there on the tale grows even more sordid and convoluted…<br />
<br />
Originated by Marco Dionysos, at last glance the head bartender at San Francisco’s <a href="http://www.michaelmina.net/clockbar/">Clock Bar</a>, this outstanding beverage in its base form was originally introduced to the Mixoloseum crew through an article by Marleigh over at <a href="http://sloshed.hyperkinetic.org/">SLOSHED!</a> It truly is a wonderful Swizzle (and appears in a fair number of places on the interweb already), with an intriguing blend of complex flavors. Much of this stems from the interplay of the Chartreuse (my love of which is <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2009/01/greensleeves.html">well-documented</a>), Pineapple (which absolutely <em>must </em>be fresh by-the-by) and spicy Falernum syrup (homemade of course). When the recipe came to light, following a bit of devious consideration Rick of <a href="http://www.kaiserpenguin.com/">KaiserPenguin</a> suggested the addition of one-quarter ounce of J. Wray & Nephew's overproof Rum to the recipe; and from there it was all downhill.<br />
<br />
Upon sampling this wonderful alteration, I was intrigued by the even-more fascinating interplay of flavors inside my well-frosted glass. The Vanilla notes present in the rum played off of the Falernum’s spices especially nicely and the additional alcohol – smoothly integrated by the dilution that a proper swizzling imparts – only served to magnify the remaining flavors.<br />
<br />
As so often happens when I get thusly captivated, I began messing with the recipe. The results of my manipulations run in a slightly different direction from the original, yet remain equally delicious. Last year at 'Tales the collective palettes of the Mixoloseum House drank more than a few of these (and its progenitor, the original Green Chartreuse Swizzle) to beat the sweltering New Orleans heat back. And so, short and sweet, I give you the following summertime libation (<strong>©</strong>):<br />
<br />
<strong>Golden Sands Swizzle </strong><br />
1 oz. Yellow Chartreuse<br />
½ oz. Lemon Hart 151° Demerara Rum<br />
1 oz. fresh Pineapple juice<br />
¾ oz. fresh Lemon juice<br />
½ oz. Falernum syrup<br />
<em>Combine ingredients in a tall Collins glass and fill ¾ with crushed ice; swizzle until the glass is frosted. Top with additional crushed ice; garnish with a sprig of Spearmint and a grate of fresh Nutmeg. </em><br />
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So on your next sweltering day, when the heat really has you down, ransack your liquor cabinet. Try the original, then another with a touch of J. Wray; then move along to mine. I promise you won’t be disappointed by any of the results. But after three Swizzles (working on <em>my</em> third right now), really, how could you be disappointed by anything..?</div><div><br />
Cheers & Enjoy!</div>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-967305724006667792009-11-23T22:53:00.009-05:002009-11-25T18:25:03.478-05:00Food Français…<span style="font-size: small;">…holds a great appeal to me for a variety of reasons. Say what you will of the French nation and its inhabitants, but one should first consider the debt which modern Western cooking most assuredly owes them - in matters of technique and codification, if nothing else. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Then again, it may be the composite flavors of the culinary tradition; the herbes fines, various ‘mother’ sauces or even the generous application of cheeses, shallots, charcuterie, wine and mushrooms that often characterizes the cuisine. Flavors subtle and bold (sometimes both), with almost any and all of them delightful in their own rights. But, to make no bones about it, any culinary tradition that flings offal, Cognac or duck fat around so willfully (and skillfully) certainly deserves a major vote of confidence!</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">And indeed, more often than not the very best examples of the French cuisine on which I wax so fondly are the oft-simple preparations; the “peasant fare” or regionally-diverse preparations which crop up all about the country. The oft-bewildering entirety of <i>haute cuisine</i> which one so rarely encounters these days (Escoffier anyone?) is, broadly-speaking, derived part & parcel from the “elevation” of such dishes. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">While each section of France certainly has its own signature dishes, I think some of my favorite examples hail from disparate ends of the country. Normandy in the far north and Gascony to the south – both of these encompass culinary traditions which, particularly in the colder months, bring about immense gustatory pleasures.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Right about now you’re probably asking yourself where I’m going with this particular ramble – is it an altogether too-lengthy introduction to a discussion on some tidbit of cookery (admittedly something unseen here for quite a time). Sort of…</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">It just so happens that one of my favorite holidays has just gone by; an affair filled with delights both culinary and social in nature. Better than Thanksgiving, my longstanding tradition of hosting a dinner party for friends which eschews the classic ‘turkey with trimmings’ has finally come - and as of this posting, gone. Previous incarnations of this event (ironically-entitled “Turkey Day”) have seen every kind of fare from Turkish to English/Irish pub ‘grub. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">But now - finally - we’ve made it round to French, which, from my musings above you may note I am rather fond of. To best honor the culinary traditions featured this year, the menu is composed of tasting portions, so that each might be conveyed in a few delightful bites to the guests. Hell, we even had a Green Hour...</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">So, without further ado, I should like to present the menu from this gloriously Armagnac-soaked event for your perusal good reader. If you should find yourself curious as to the exact composition of anything you see, <a href="mailto:samuraibartender@gmail.com">drop me a line</a> and I’ll be happy to pass along a recipe or three…once the gout dies down…</span><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">† <b>HORS D'OEUVRES</b> †<br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Canapés de Brie aux Damsons</span></i></b><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Butter crackers mounted with Brie cheese & Damson Plum preserves </span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Fromages et Crutons</span></i></b><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Gruyère & Brie cheeses; served with Garlic-toasted slices of homemade Baguette</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Trois Oeufs a la Diable</span></b></i><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Devilled Eggs served three ways - black Truffle-fried Leeks; Gruyère & Bacon; Paprika & Garlic-spiced </span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Rillettes de Canard</span></em></b><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">A coarse pâté of Duck confit, Armagnac and Prunes; served with toasted slices of homemade Baguette</span><br />
</div><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">†<b> DÎNER</b> †<br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">- À TABLE -</span></b><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><strong><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Tranches de Pain avec Beurres Composé</span></em></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Homemade Baguettes; served with Rosemary, confit Garlic-Marjoram & pink Sea Salt butters</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><strong><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Salade Verte de Mesclun</span></em></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Romaine and Chicory Endive tossed with caramelized Pear, Bôucheron cheese & a Walnut-Cider vinaigrette</span><br />
</div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">- I -</span></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><strong><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Saucisses de Lapin aux Pommes</span></em></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Pan-seared sausages of <a href="http://www.dartagnan.com/51225/565800/Game-Sausages/Rabbit--Ginger-Sausage.html">Ginger-spiced Rabbit</a>; flambéed at-table with caramelized Apples</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><strong><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">“Raclettes”</span></em></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Gold Potatoes poached in Duck stock; stuffed with melted Raclette cheese, black Truffle Butter, Garlic and Thyme </span><br />
</div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">- II -</span></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><strong><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Brochettes de Pruneaux au Romarin</span></em></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Bacon-wrapped Prunes; lightly-grilled on skewers of fresh Rosemary</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><strong><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Confit de Magret au Pommes de Terre à la Sarladaise</span></em></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Confit of Duck breast with herbs; served over Yukon Gold Potatoes sautéed with Duck fat & fresh Sage</span><br />
</div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">- ENTREMET -</span></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><strong><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">“Vichyssoise” de Canard</span></em></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">A petite serving of creamy soup; Gold Potatoes and Leeks simmered in Duck stock; served chilled</span><br />
</div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">- III -</span></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><strong><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Echalotes Caramélisées</span></em></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Coarsely-chopped Shallots; caramelized with herbs and Côtes du Rhône then baked until crisp</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><strong><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Coq au Vin</span></em></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">A classic fricassee of free-range Chicken; simmered in Côtes du Rhône with Mushrooms & herbs until tender</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><strong><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Salade Tiède de Lègumes et Lapin Confit</span></em></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Julienned Mushrooms, Celery, Apples and Almonds sautéed in dry Sherry & Dijon Mustard; tossed with pulled confit of Rabbit</span><br />
</div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">- IV -</span></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><strong><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Sauce des Pommes au Pruneaux</span></em></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">A coarse purée of spiced Apples and Plums, spiked with Armagnac brandy; served warm</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><strong><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Galettes de Potiron</span></em></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Crisp pancakes of spiced Winter squash; served warm with a Chervil & Vanilla-spiced Crème Fraiche </span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><strong><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Rouelle de Veau au Cidre</span></em></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Veal shanks & Mushrooms slowly braised in dry Cider; served over Pasta finished with black Truffle Butter</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><b>† DESSERT †</b><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: center;"><b><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Sables de Caen</span></em></b><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Buttery Shortbread cookies</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><strong><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Glace Crème au Miel de Lavande</span></em></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Homemade ice cream; made with Lavender Honey from Provence</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><strong><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Café du Monde (au Lait)</span></em></strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Orleans-style dark-roasted Chicory Coffee; served hot with raw Sugar & warm sweet Cream alongside</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><strong>† L'HEURE VERTE †</strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: center;"><em><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">Absinthe</span></strong></em><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Served with Sugar cubes and ice Water for the traditional ‘drip’ preparation:</span></em><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><strong>Kübler</strong> - a Swiss-style Absinthe blanche (white); extremely well-balanced </span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><strong>Vieux Carré</strong> - an American Absinthe verte (green); light with Spearmint notes</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><em><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">Pastis </span></strong></em><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><em><span style="font-size: x-small;">Served straight, iced, with Soda or ‘en Momisette’ (Soda with Almond syrup):</span></em><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><strong>Herbsaint</strong> - a spicier, herbal-flavored American pastis</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><strong>Pernod Liqueur d’Anis </strong>- a sweeter-flavored French pastis</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><strong>Manguin Pastis au Víolette </strong>- a rare, drier-flavored French pastis; flavored with Violets</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"></span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><br />
<strong>† LES BOISSONS †</strong><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: center;"><em><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">Ponche de Gascogne</span></strong></em><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">XO Armagnac brandy, homemade Fig, Date & Honey liqueur, black Tea, fresh Lemon and Bitters</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><em><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">Vins </span></strong></em><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Hugel "Gentil", Gewürztraminer, 2007</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Paul Jaboulet Aîné “Parallèle 45”, Côtes du Rhône, 2006 </span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><em><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">Cidre et Bier</span></strong></em><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Woodchuck #802 Cider</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">J.W. Dundee Honey Brown Ale</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><em><br />
</em><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">In closing I should like to extend a tremendous thanks to those who assisted with much of the prep for this event - it would not have been possible without you my <i>vatos locos</i>!</span><span style="font-size: small;"> Equal thanks to those who attended this year's event - I hope you had as much fun eating as I did cooking!</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Cheers & Happy Thanksgiving everyone!</span><br />
<br />
<br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">PS - Yes, I am well-aware that Vichysoisse is not, in fact, a French invention. It's no less delightful for the fact. Deal with it friends...</span><br />
</div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-41027131163669405692009-09-18T18:07:00.010-04:002009-09-18T18:47:32.906-04:00Highlighting Flavors…<span style="font-size:85%;">…in creations of the kitchen as well as the bar, is so often a question of paying close attention to ones’ ingredients. In the case of spirits, particularly well-crafted ones, this can alternately be quite straightforward or delicately-complicated; but it is always a joy, both in the compounding as well as the final result(s).<br /><br />The goal of a well-made cocktail should, of course, always be a balance of its constituents; a poise achieved by manipulating the characteristics of the beverages’ ingredients according to their nature(s). Sometimes the desired outcome is as essential as highlighting flavors found within the ingredients. In other instances, a completely new flavor – one formed by the interaction of a drink’s various components – is aimed for.<br /><br />The key to achieving either result is to know the ingredient(s) – particularly the really important stuff: how they taste and smell, with particular notice paid to the volume or intensity of such characteristics. In terms of such factors, what flavors stand out? What lurks subtly in the background? How assertive (or not) are they? Do these flavors, aromas, &c. draw to mind any other ingredients (whether experienced singly or in-tandem), alcoholic or not?<br /><br />These remain questions one should always ask before beginning the delicate additions and subtractions of other ingredients which so often lead to quality recipes. On the topic of such questions, calculations and considerations of ingredients, some time ago a lovely bottle of Cachaça passed into my hands - an artisanal example of the spirit called <a href="http://www.drinkbocaloca.com/home.php">Boca Loca</a>.<br /><br />A fairly-unique example of the distillate, Boca Loca's product seems to veer away from the flavor profile of most Cachaças. Within the category, even among the better examples, there seems a tendency towards bold and (sometimes agreeable) oily flavors of grassy sugarcane. In well-treated and carefully-distilled products, the complex, peppery ‘funkiness’ this can lend is often a pleasure, while in poorer (or “industrial”) distillates this character comes through as smoky and rough.<br /><br />Not so with Boca Loca, however. This Cachaça is light in texture, with very little of the oily character mentioned above, while remaining redolent in both flavor and aroma. It does possess the grassiness one would expect, but this is offset by a number of more (and less) ethereal flavors. Heavier notes of Apricot or Peach are immediately obvious, while ghosts of white Pepper, Honey and berries come through in a more subtle, if pleasantly-so, manner.<br /><br />So what to do with this rather intriguing spirit? To be sure, it makes a perfectly-acceptable Caipirinha, but the heaviness of the Lime and Sugar has a tendency to bury the base spirit. So why not try and play up (or off of) some of those interesting flavors found within by bringing in some complimentary ingredients? For the first of these, I (shamelessly) stole a page from the inestimable (and generally-speaking, equally shameless) <a href="http://www.jeffreymorgenthaler.com/">Jeffrey Morgenthaler</a> – whom Boca Loca apparently employs to compound drinks for them…<br /><br />Earlier in the year, Jeff wrote of a small concoction – the <a href="http://www.jeffreymorgenthaler.com/2009/caneflower/">Caneflower</a> - he had come up with, using St. Germain liqueur and Aperol to play up certain elements in the Cachaça. It’s a really fantastic drink already; one where the floral sweetness of Elderflower plays delightfully against the delicate sugarcane grassiness of the base. But what about coaxing that grassy note, or the peppery-honey flavor that lingers on the Cachaça’s finish, to the foreground? For that we’ll turn to a different floral ingredient (and bitter modifier); re-jiggering Jeff’s formula to run in a different direction…<br /><br /><strong><span style="font-size:109;">Honeysuckle syrup </span></strong><br />1 Cup: Water<br />1 Cup: superfine Sugar<br />2½ Tblspns. <a href="http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/bulkherb/h.php#h_hon">dried Honeysuckle</a><br />2 Tblspns. Clover Honey<br />⅛ Tsp. fresh Lemon zest<br /><em>If you’ve purchased dried Honeysuckle rather than collect it locally, pick out only the flowers, discarding any leaf or stem you may find. Combine ingredients in a non-reactive saucepan and bring to a gentle simmer over low-medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Simmer gently – do not boil – for two minutes before removing from heat. Cool to room temperature (~20 minutes), fine-strain by preferred method (cheesecloth, chinois, &c) and bottle. </em><br />Give it a try in the following cocktail; though make some extra, as it’s showing considerable promise with Rhum Agricole & certain Gins too (<strong>©</strong>):<br /><br /><strong><span style="font-size:109;">Videira de Caña </span></strong><br />1½ oz. <a href="http://www.drinkbocaloca.com/home.php">Boca Loca</a> Cachaça<br />¾ oz. RinQuinQuin<br />¾ oz. Honeysuckle syrup<br /><em>Combine ingredients in a mixing glass and shake well. Strain up into a chilled cocktail glass; garnish with small twists of fresh Lemon & Tangerine. </em><br /><br />Another idea stemmed from the aforementioned presence of various stonefruit(s) in the overall flavor profile of the spirit; one which proved well-worth highlighting through the use of the following ingredient:<br /><br /><strong><span style="font-size:109;">Apricot-Tea syrup </span></strong><br />1½ Cups: superfine Sugar<br />1 Cup: Water<br />1x Tazo Vanilla-Apricot teabag<br />1x slice: candied Ginger, julienned<br />1x dried Apricot, julienned<br /><em>Combine prepared ingredients in a non-reactive saucepan & bring to a gentle simmer over low-medium heat, stirring to dissolve the Sugar. Simmer gently for one minute before removing from heat. Cool to room temperature (~20 minutes), fine-strain by preferred method (cheesecloth, chinois, &c) and bottle. </em><br />Try it out in the following twist (<strong>©</strong>) on the venerable Clover Club cocktail:<br /><br /><strong><span style="font-size:109;">Capricious Club Cocktail </span><br /></strong>1½ oz. <a href="http://www.drinkbocaloca.com/home.php">Boca Loca</a> Cachaça<br />½ oz. dry Vermouth (Noilly Prat)<br />½ oz. Apricot-Tea syrup<br />½ oz. fresh Lemon juice<br />½ oz. fresh Egg white<br />Rinse ¼ oz. Apricot Brandy (a drier brand; Marie Brizard)<br /><em>Combine ingredients and dry-shake to emulsify; add ice & shake well. Rinse a chilled coupe with the Apricot Brandy. Strain up into the prepared glass & garnish with a thin slice of dried Apricot.<br /></em><br />I enjoyed the flavors which the stonefruit combination highlighted and wondered how the spirits’ characteristic would fair in a cleaner/simpler format. Quite well indeed if this variation on Tí Punch – a standby of (the similarly-grassy) Rhum Agricole - is any indication (<strong>©</strong>):<br /><br /><strong><span style="font-size:109;">Loca Tí</span></strong><br />1½ oz. Boca Loca Cachaça<br />½ oz Apricot-Tea syrup<br />1 d. Fee’s Peach bitters<br />1x dried Apricot, halved<br />1x small slice: Lemon peel<br /><em>Combine prepared dry ingredients - Lemon peel should be cut from the side of the fruit and be no larger than a quarter - with syrup & bitters in a short glass (~6 oz) and muddle. Add Cachaça & fill with crushed ice. Swizzle briefly to chill and incorporate; top with crushed ice & savor.</em><br /><br /><br />Cheers & Enjoy!<br /><br /><strong>***</strong><br /><em>In the interest of full disclosure, a sample of Boca Loca Cachaça was provided (some time ago) for my use. </em></span>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-35937391029004831702009-09-09T20:38:00.006-04:002009-09-26T14:14:37.348-04:00Bitters Make it Better, part III<span style="font-size:85%;">As I’ve been wont to say on <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/12/heres-how-sourcing-ingredients.html">numerous occasions</a>, delightful flavor combinations can often be found in the culinary cultures of one's neighbors - even if said neighbors tend to live several thousand miles away on a different continent. The flavors enjoyed in the farther reaches of the planet (or, depending on your locale, right down the street), which were so coveted by our ancestors, are often culinary delights to even the most jaded palette and in many instances can create truly unique experiences in the works of both the kitchen and bar...<br /><br />Such is certainly the case with the spice blend(s) known as <em>Ras el Hanout</em>, which typically hail from the distant (to me at least) shores of Morocco in North Africa. Literally-translated as “head (sometimes “top”) of the shop”, the term is used to describe a combination of (the best) spices whose composition - in modern times as well in days long past - was the provenance of its compounder.<br /><br />Much like <em>Curry</em> or <em>Garam Masala</em>, the actual ingredients of a given <em>Ras el Hanout</em> are many – some blends are purported to contain as many as eighty (!) ingredients – with no standard ratio of preparation and therefore can vary widely based on the recipe of the shop, business or individual who blended them. Typical additions include spices common to the region (and its cuisine) such as Cardamom, Cinnamon, Cloves, Cumin, Coriander, Mace, Nutmeg and various types of Peppercorns; though more unusual flavorings also crop up regularly. Certain examples of the blends’ are formulated according to function. “Standardized” (by modern commercial spice companies) recipes sold under the name (often including the above ingredients alongside Paprika & Turmeric) are commonly used on poultry or meats.<br /><br />Yet as the blend varies, so do its potential uses. There exists varieties for pastries or other confections, others utilized in flavoring couscous, rice or bulgur and dozens of others which accommodate culinary applications as widely-varied as the ingredients that make up a <em>Ras el Hanout</em>. It is to one of these blends – a mysteriously-complex and spicy combination of fourteen ingredients – that we turn our attention to today.<br /><br />However, it is in the application of this mixture (which as a dried spice is ordinarily used for flavoring coffee) that I think you will find the most interest. For you see, good reader, today we’re going to make a new (and positively delightful) variety of bitters with it…<br /><br /><strong><span style="font-size:120;">Ras el Hanout Kahwa bitters</span></strong><br />8x green Cardamom pods, <em>crushed</em><br />6x Cloves, <em>whole </em><br />2x Allspice berries, <em>cracked </em><br />1x Nutmeg, <em>cracked</em><br />1” piece: Canella Cinnamon, <em>crushed </em><br />1½ Tsp. Sesame seeds, <em>whole</em><br />½ Tsp. Aniseed, <em>whole</em><br />½ Tsp. Fennel seeds, <em>whole </em><br />½ Tsp white Peppercorns, <em>cracked </em><br />---<br />10 oz. 151° Demerara Rum (El Dorado)<br />4 oz. Bonded Rye Whiskey (Rittenhouse)<br />4x <a href="http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/bulkherb/r.php#h_r_h">Rosehips</a>, <em>whole</em><br />3x pieces: <a href="http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/bulkherb/g.php#h_gal">Galingale</a>, <em>thinly-sliced </em><br />1x piece: Ginger, <em>thinly-sliced </em><br />2x blades: Mace<br /><em>Prepare the ingredients as specified; Ginger & Galingale should be sliced to the approximate dimensions of a half-dollar. Combine the first nine ingredients in a non-reactive pan & toast over low heat until fragrant (~1 min). Place toasted ingredients in an airtight container; add the remaining six ingredients & shake very well. Infuse for eight days, shaking occasionally, before straining by preferred method (cheesecloth, chinois, &c). Reserve this infused liquid (setting ½ oz. aside) and ‘used’ spices in separate containers. </em><br />---<br />3½ oz. Water<br />½ oz. Infused liquid (<strong>↑</strong>)<br />6x Espresso beans, <em>cracked</em><br />⅛ Tsp. <a href="http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/bulkherb/a.php#h_a_gp">Gum Arabic</a> powder<br />⅛ Tsp. <a href="http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/bulkherb/q.php#h_qua">Quassia</a> bark<br /><em>Combine ingredients in a small non-reactive saucepan. Bring water to a light simmer – </em>do not boil <em>- over low-medium heat, stirring vigorously to dissolve the Gum. Continue to simmer for two minutes then remove from heat & pour over the reserved ‘used’ spices while hot. Infuse this mixture for three days before fine-straining by preferred method (cheesecloth, chinois, &c). Combine this infusion with the remaining reserved liquid, shake well and rest for a final three days. Fine-strain by preferred method, as necessary, until liquid remains clear & bottle. </em><br /><br />The resulting bitters match up <em>very</em> well (obviously) with any beverage, hot or cold which contains coffee. As such, the addition of a few dashes to any of the classic hot coffee drinks (the Café Diablere, Nero, or Brûlot, for example) adds a mysterious bittersweet spiciness which is not to be missed.<br /><br />In other applications, these bitters mix quite well with a number of ‘brown’ or aged spirits; most notably spicier Ryes and mellow Cognacs. A Manhattan with equal dashes of these and Angostura Orange is a delightfully-unique twist, as is a Rum Old-Fashioned treated in the same way. Likewise, they show serious promise when mixed with equally-complex modifiers such as Carpano Antica Formula, Benedictine and certain (sweeter) potable bitters like Amaro Nonino. Hell, after a little experimentation I found two dashes of them even improves upon a pair of cream drinks – specifically a Brandy Alexander and White Russian.<br /><br />Even if you don’t want to compound this formula as a bitters, I might recommend adding the Gum Arabic to the other dry spices (nixing the liquids, Quassia & Esspresso beans from the blend) and running the whole mix through a spice or coffee grinder until finely-powdered. Once sieved, the resulting spice blend makes for a truly <strong>incredible</strong> cup of coffee – merely add a ¼ teaspoon to every ½ cup of your favorite ground beans prior to brewing it…<br /></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><br />Cheers & Enjoy! </span><br /><br /><em></em>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-14911133326053271482009-08-27T12:00:00.006-04:002009-08-30T12:36:02.698-04:00Flirting with Flora: Bubbles, pt. I<span style="font-size:85%;">If <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/search/label/Flora">past articles</a> here are any indication to you, good reader, I've got something of a fond place in my palette for exotic or unusual taste profiles. Not the least of these are floral or botanically-derived flavors; examples of which I am constantly seeking to incorporate into (or play off of already-existing elements in) my drinks. For inspiration (in all things, not just this particular flirtation), I often turn towards ideas hailing from <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/12/heres-how-sourcing-ingredients.html">culinary cultures</a> outside of my own or from days long-forgotten. I reason that I couldn't possibly be the first half-clever (and that's a generous evaluation) git to realize that <em>A</em> plus <em>B</em> with a dash of <em>C </em>tastes great, and then acts upon this notion to mix it up...</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SpcOezErlSI/AAAAAAAAA7Y/BqbdcWhBc3k/s1600-h/Hibiscus1.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 162px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 134px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374780602558682402" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SpcOezErlSI/AAAAAAAAA7Y/BqbdcWhBc3k/s200/Hibiscus1.jpg" /></a>Take my favorite floral ingredient – Hibiscus - for example. As I've discussed here in <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/search?q=hibiscus">past articles</a>, this lovely tropical flower (which apparently grows <em>quite</em> well in New Jersey, go figure) is often compounded into a tisane. The same beverage is made just about wherever Hibiscus grows - in the Middle East its called <em>Karkade</em>, North & West Africans refer to it as <em>Bissap</em> or <em>Tsobo</em>, while natives of Hawaii & the Caribbean islands know it as <em>Red Sorrel</em>. Sometimes the resulting infusions are spiced to add an additional character, sometimes not. </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">But note what our <a href="http://www.novamex.com/jarritos.sstg">clever friends</a> in Mexico have done with the traditional <em>agua fresca</em>: carbonate the already-refreshing brew into a soda. To be frank, all they've really done is integrate a floral ingredient into the ranks of the modern (sugar & soda-saturated) palette; to re-introduce to younger generations ingredients & flavors which their parents, grandparents (and earlier relations still) were wont to compound into something delicious with fair regularity.<br /><br /><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5d/Filipendula-ulmaria.JPG"></a><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/80/Villtakjas_2008.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 216px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 151px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/80/Villtakjas_2008.jpg" /></a>In much the same vein, observe a centuries-old European floral ingredient which has only recently become widely-celebrated (again) for its considerable virtues: the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elderflower">Elderflower</a>. Similarly, an uncommon (and uncommonly tasty) blossom hailing from the same regions: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filipendula_ulmaria">Meadowsweet</a> - while still (occasionally) a botanical constituent in Gin, it was once <em>also</em> a component in tisane recipes of all stripes. And what of <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/06/flirting-with-flora-martin-millers-g_05.html">Honeysuckle</a> - the delicately-sweet perfume of spring & summertime evenings? Finally, the bane of suburban gardeners and amateur winemakers alike: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dandelion">Dandelions</a>, whose slight bitterness is often offset by coupling with yet another all-too common meadow weed: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burdock">Burdock</a>.<br /><br /><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b2/Honeysuckle_w_y.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 216px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 135px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b2/Honeysuckle_w_y.jpg" /></a>In some way, all of these edible flowers (and <em>many</em> others too) were well-regarded in the kitchens of days gone by. A primary reason for this is that, in certain proportions, all five of them play off of or highlight the other ingredients with which they are mixed in a multitude of fascinating ways. Such blending, to say nothing for these ingredients' already marvelous flavors on their own, allows for the creation of wholly-unique flavor profiles. </span><span style="font-size:85%;">Such is certainly the case with the following three homemade sodas (& the delicious libations made with them), so dust off your soda siphons and meet me in the middle...<br /><br /><strong>Strawberry Fields soda</strong><br />2¾ Cups: Water<br />1¾ Cups: fresh Strawberries, <em>hulled</em><br />½ Cup: superfine white Sugar<br />¼ Cup: dried <a href="http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/bulkherb/m.php#h_mead">Meadowsweet flowers</a><br />¼ Cup: dried <a href="http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/bulkherb/h.php#h_hon">Honeysuckle flowers</a><br />2 oz. <a href="http://store.ukgourmet.us/elderflower-cordialconcentrate.html">Elderflower cordial</a><br />Scant ⅛ Tsp. <a href="http://www.homebrewers.com/product/6382?meta=FRG&utm_source=GBASE&utm_medium=CPC&utm_content=&utm_campaign=">Pectic Enzyme</a> (optional)<br /><em>Clean, hull & halve the Strawberries. Place in an airtight container & toss with Pectic Enzyme, if using. Freeze for several hours.<br />Bring Water, Meadowsweet & Sugar to a light simmer over low-medium heat in a non-reactive saucepan. Simmer very gently (the volatile oils in these flowers are a bit delicate) for approximately two minutes until sugar is dissolved; add frozen Strawberries. Simmer very gently (again, </em>do not<em> boil) for five more minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat, cool to room temperature & add Elderflower cordial. Fine-strain several times by preferred method (cheesecloth, chinois, &c.) to remove any particulate; pressing on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible.<br />Pour into a soda siphon (should fill a standard iSi exactly). Carbonate, shake & chill according to your model's instructions</em>, then give the following libation a try (©):<br /><br /><strong><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SphqipabWjI/AAAAAAAAA7w/mobt-7hirI8/s1600-h/MorangoCampo(field)5.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 157px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 191px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375163298731481650" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SphqipabWjI/AAAAAAAAA7w/mobt-7hirI8/s200/MorangoCampo(field)5.jpg" /></a>Morango Campo<br /></strong>1½ oz. <a href="http://www.drinkbocaloca.com/home.php">Boca Loca</a> Cachaça<br />½ oz. Yellow Chartreuse<br />½ oz. fresh Lemon juice<br />5-6 oz. Strawberry Fields soda<br /><em>Build ingredients in an ice-filled Collins glass. Stir gently; garnish with a slice of fresh Strawberry & an edible flower. </em></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>---</em></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">If you happen to be out camping (as in the picture at left;<em> by Ken Cleary</em>) a pair of brandied Cherries will probably do just fine for garnish.<br /><br />When creating new recipes, or even fiddling with established ones, there is a concept which chefs & sommeliers often espouse. Having seen it spawn more than a few delightful combinations, I also tend to agree with said notion, wherein "things that grow together, are often best served together". Examining this thought a bit more broadly, flavors (or combinations thereof) which are popular in a given locale often blend beautifully with other ones enjoyed in the same general area.<br /><br />Again, take the delightful <em>agua fresca</em> known as Jamaica; a refreshingly-tart, floral beverage well-suited to the climate of Mexico. Even better for our purposes (and in line with the aforementioned theory), it blends <em>wonderfully</em> with Tequila. Particularly a smooth, grassy - almost sweet - example of the category like <a href="http://tequilaocho.com/plata.aspx">Tequila Ocho</a>'s 2008 Plata. Better still, certain of this artisanal spirits' component spice notes - a pleasant blend of Cinnamon & Citrus-y flavors - are themselves a common addition to a glass of Jamaica; like so:<br /><br /><strong>Jamaica soda </strong><br />3½ Cups: Water<br />¾ Cup: dried Hibiscus flowers<br />¼ Cup: raw Sugar<br />2 oz. light Agave nectar<br />1½ oz. Cinnamon syrup<br />¾ Tsp. Citric Acid<br />¾ Tsp. fresh Lime zest<br /><em>Bring the Water & dried Hibiscus to a boil in a non-reactive saucepan before stirring in the Sugar & Citric Acid. Reduce heat & simmer for 5-6 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat, stir in Syrups & Zest, cover & cool to room temperature (~3 hours). Fine-strain by preferred method (cheesecloth, chinois, &c), pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible.<br />Pour into a soda siphon (should fill a standard iSi exactly). Carbonate, shake & chill according to your model's instructions</em>, then give the following libation a try (<strong>©</strong>):<br /><br /><strong>Paloma de Flor<br /></strong>1¾ oz. <a href="http://tequilaocho.com/plata.aspx">Tequila Ocho Plata</a> (2008)<br />¼ oz. fresh Lime juice<br />5-6 oz. Jamaica soda<br /><em>Build ingredients in an ice-filled Collins glass. Stir gently; garnish with a twist of fresh Lime & an edible flower. </em></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>---</em></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>As an optional touch</em>, two sprays via an atomizer of good-quality Mescal into the glass prior to building lends a further agave complexity.<br /><br />For our final homemade soda we turn to the aforementioned bane of many an amateur winemaker (I’ve never seen an old home vintning guide that didn’t include one such recipe): Dandelions. </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2e/DandelionFlower2.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 170px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 156px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2e/DandelionFlower2.JPG" /></a>The moderate vegetal bitterness (think Mesclun) that the green portions (which won't be used below) of this ubiquitous weed impart is offset considerably by its roots and flowers, which provide a vaguely-honeyed sweetness. Furthermore, the addition of another common aromatic wildflower, the dull purple Burdock, rounds out the bitterness with a complex (almost like a fruity take on star Anise) herbal flavor. This combination has been a popular flavor in British <a href="http://www.britishfoodshop.com/shopexd.asp?id=1127">sodas</a> for many years, and quite rightfully so. When blended with a bit of rich sugar and offset by a touch of citric acidity, the resulting ‘fizz is delightful - particularly with a measure of flavorful Gin tossed in. But don’t just take my word for it:<br /><br /><strong>Dandified soda </strong><br />3¼ Cups: Water<br />1 packed Cup: dried Dandelion (½ <a href="http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/bulkherb/d.php#h_dan_r">root</a>, ½ flowers), <em>cleaned</em><br />½ Cup: dried Burdock (½ <a href="http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/bulkherb/b.php#h_bur">root</a>, ½ flowers), <em>cleaned</em><br />½ Cup: light brown Sugar<br />2 Tblspns. white Sugar<br />2 Tblspns. golden Raisins<br />1½ Tblspns. fresh Ginger, <em>minced</em><br />2 Tsp. Cream of Tartar<br />¾ oz. fresh Lemon juice, <em>finely-strained</em><br />Peel of 1 Lemon, <em>pith removed & julienned</em><br /><em>Bring the flowers, roots, Raisins, Ginger & Lemon peel to a boil over medium-high heat in a non-reactive saucepan. Slowly stir in the Sugars & continue to simmer for about fifteen minutes. Remove from heat & cool slightly (10 minutes or so). Strain once by preferred method (cheesecloth, chinois, &c.), pressing gently on solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Stir in the Lemon juice and Tartar, then set aside & cool to room temperature. Strain again if necessary.<br />Pour into a soda siphon (should fill a standard iSi exactly). Carbonate, shake & chill according to your model's instructions, </em>then give the following libation a try (<strong>©</strong>):<br /><br /><strong><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SphIBy-XOdI/AAAAAAAAA7o/xXRBlAVuGFM/s1600-h/DandifiedCooler4.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 202px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 147px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375125350967097810" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SphIBy-XOdI/AAAAAAAAA7o/xXRBlAVuGFM/s200/DandifiedCooler4.jpg" /></a>Posh Dandy Cooler </strong><br />1½ oz. Hendrick’s Gin<br />¼ oz. blended Scotch (<a href="http://www.suntory.com/yamazaki/main.html">Yamazaki</a> 12yr)<br />¼ oz. Honey syrup<br />1d Fee’s Cherry bitters<br />1d Peychaud's bitters<br />5-6 oz. Dandified soda<br /><em>Build ingredients in an ice-filled Collins glass. Roll once to mix; garnish with a Lemon twist & brandied Cherry. </em><br /><br /><br /><strong><span style="font-size:105%;">Something Completely Different</span></strong><br />As I indicated in my last post, the past month or so has been full of experiments and the fine-tuning of a great many new recipes, ideas, etc. One group of these, inspired by conversations at ‘Tales and carried out primarily at my <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2009/08/long-journeys-unexpected-absence.html">portable bar</a>, has involved the use of a soda siphon. Good thing you dusted it off, no?<br /><br />The conversations in question pertained to carbonation, both in long drinks as well as some speculation about a new gadget which is appearing in certain circles – the <a href="http://perlagesystems.com/">Perlage/PERLINI system</a>. Seems some clever folks cobbled together a device which (in addition to preserving Champagne) is capable of efficiently-carbonating spirits; causing, as Robert Hess put it, “[Tequila] to drink just like Champagne.”<br /><br />An interesting if very scary proposition, I think. As for the long drinks, certain aspects of the (hazy – this was ‘Tales after all) discussions in question centered around the problem of incorporating a carbonated mixer into the remaining non-carbonated ingredients, say a Tom Collins, without losing an undue amount of the ‘bubbly…<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SphDS31-UdI/AAAAAAAAA7g/ih0kXDHLzv0/s1600-h/MorangoCampo(field)3.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 124px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 182px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375120146773725650" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SphDS31-UdI/AAAAAAAAA7g/ih0kXDHLzv0/s200/MorangoCampo(field)3.jpg" /></a>Stirring gently, rolling, allowing the roiling carbonation to blend everything (as in a French 75). Even the old Fizz-maker’s trick of adding a spoonful of sugar at the last moment; all of these work reasonably well. But I couldn’t help but feel that sometimes a given drink would benefit from having its ingredient combined and well-incorporated, then carbonated <em>together</em>; especially when a homemade soda (in particular those made with heavier syrups) gets involved. The presence of an additional siphon (lent by a friend; in which I could keep Seltzer while carrying out my trials) at the bar only helped to facilitate these experiments.<br /><br />In short – it works brilliantly. Every single sip positively pops with the fat, roiling bubbles a good siphon creates. The components blend seamlessly with no separation of flavor and the introduction of carbonation into ordinarily-still ingredients such as juices and spirits makes for a delightfully-smooth, fascinating textural component that I daresay even improves upon old standbys.<br /><br />After compounding five beverages - Singapore Sling, (<a href="http://www.jeffreymorgenthaler.com/2008/how-to-make-your-own-ginger-beer/">Morgenthaler's</a>) Dark & Stormy and the three already listed above in this fashion, the results were positively fantastic. The Singapore Sling in particular – a drink which I make with more than passing regularity – was one of the best I think I’ve ever had.<br /><br />As for how this is done – in short, very simply – merely total up the volume of your recipe, determine how many ounces your siphon will hold and do the math. The only point on which one should be cautious is in fine-straining your mixture, particularly if citrus or other juices are included, as you wouldn’t want to clog your siphon up with particulate. For instance, the drinks I’ve already discussed thus far are prepared in my siphon (which comfortably holds about 32 oz.) like so:<br /><br /><strong>Morango Campo</strong> (via Siphon)<br />6 oz. <a href="http://www.drinkbocaloca.com/home.php">Boca Loca</a> Cachaça<br />2 oz. Yellow Chartreuse<br />2 oz. fresh Lemon juice, <em>fine-strained</em><br />22 oz. Strawberry Fields soda<br /><em>Combine ingredients in a pitcher and stir well to incorporate (or just combine in the siphon & shake well). Pour into siphon, carbonate according to manufacturer’s instructions & chill. </em>Serve & garnish as above.<br /><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Paloma de Flor </strong>(via Siphon)<br />7 oz. <a href="http://tequilaocho.com/plata.aspx">Tequila Ocho Plata</a> (2008)<br />1 oz. fresh Lime juice, <em>fine-strained </em><br />23 oz. Jamaica soda<br /><em>Combine ingredients in a pitcher and stir well to incorporate (or just combine in the siphon & shake well). Pour into siphon, carbonate according to manufacturer’s instructions & chill. </em>Serve & garnish as above.<br /><br /><strong>Posh Dandy Cooler </strong>(via Siphon)<br />6 oz. Hendrick’s Gin<br />1 oz. blended Scotch (<a href="http://www.suntory.com/yamazaki/main.html">Yamazaki</a> 12yr)<br />1 oz. Honey syrup<br />4d Fee’s Cherry bitters<br />4d Peychaud's bitters<br />23 oz. Dandified soda<br /><em>Combine ingredients in a pitcher and stir well to incorporate (or just combine in the siphon & shake it well). Pour into siphon, carbonate according to manufacturer’s instructions & chill. </em>Serve & garnish as above.<em> </em><br /><br /></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Cheers & Enjoy!<br /><br />***<br /><em>In the spirit of full disclosure, samples of both </em><a href="http://www.drinkbocaloca.com/home.php">Boca Loca Cachaça</a><em> and </em><a href="http://tequilaocho.com/plata.aspx">Tequila Ocho Plata</a><em> (2008 bottling) were generously provided for my use. And bloody fine acquisitions both of them were...</em> </span>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-2067635708467337832009-08-12T14:50:00.007-04:002009-08-14T23:53:51.919-04:00Long Journeys & an Unexpected Absence...<span style="font-size:85%;">...but not without cause, or rather a variety of them. By my feeble calculations, in the not-insignificant period of time since my last posting, I've traveled some 3500 miles! Between work, all this 'legging about the country and the requisite prep/cleanup prior to or following such travels, my (deplorable) absence from writing here might be understandable, however unfortunate it may be.<br /><br />Yet, by way of apology, rather than wax poetic on every tiny detail accross a handful of posts, I reasoned a collection of highlights might serve best to catch you, my good reader, up on my spirits-doused activities of th</span><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoOiQMiI0eI/AAAAAAAAA54/9I06vOwj-Ac/s1600-h/PartyPoi6.jpg"></a><span style="font-size:85%;">e past month or so.<br /><br /></span><strong>'Tales 2009</strong><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">First up in early July, my trip down to (all-too sunny) NOLA for this year's </span><a href="http://talesofthecocktail.com/"><span style="font-size:85%;">Tales of the Cocktail</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> - an incredible and educational exerience to be sure. While at this spirited event of the year I attended seminars on all manner of fascinating cocktailian topics, sampled spirits from all over the world, wiled away the evenings in the friendly company of my fellow bloggers over at the </span><a href="http://blog.mixoloseum.com/"><span style="font-size:85%;">Mixoloseum</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> house and, in the end, nearly gave myself a hernia hauling home the mountain of 'schwag that was foisted upon the attendees at every turn.<br /><br />I <em>also</em> took part in a cocktail competition of fairly epic proportions - a joint effort between the various chapter cities of the </span><a href="http://usbg.org/"><span style="font-size:85%;">USBG</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> and the wonderful folks at </span><a href="http://www.lebloncachaca.com/verify.html"><span style="font-size:85%;">Leblon Cachaça</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">. The theme of said competition was to craft a riff on the venerable Caipirinha, and the collection of immensely-talented individuals (two for each USBG chapter city) chosen to compete certainly brought some of their best tricks to bear, much to the delight of the ~400 person guest list!<br /><br />Such was assuredly the case with my teammate (& fellow New Jerseyian), Tad Carducci of </span><a href="http://tipplingbrothers.com/"><span style="font-size:85%;">Tippling Bros.</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> & USBGNY fame, who took the People's Choice Award for the event. Likewise with Tobin Ellis and Andrew Pollard of the Las Vegas chapter, who took the Judge's Choice Award. For a glimpse at the incredible show that Leblon, the USBG & all eighteen of us put on (as well as the various recipes concocted for the evening) check out the video stream below (the idiot in red with Pelé socks on his arms would be yours truly):</span><br /><object width="340" height="285"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/n3IJ6UT-BKE&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0&color1=0x3a3a3a&color2=0x999999&border=1"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><br /><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/n3IJ6UT-BKE&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0&color1=0x3a3a3a&color2=0x999999&border=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="340" height="285"></embed></object><br />---<br /><br /><strong>Pennsic 38</strong><br /><strong>Of Portable Bars...<br /></strong><span style="font-size:85%;">For those of you who have been tuning in here for a while (and who haven't been terribly put off by my recent absence), you may </span><a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/08/what-is-it-good-for.html"><span style="font-size:85%;">recall</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> that this is the time of year when the </span><a href="http://www.pennsicwar.org/penn38/index.html"><span style="font-size:85%;">Pennsic War</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> takes place in the wilds of upstate Pennsylvania. Although this year's trip out was considerably shorter than previous years' (in span, the journey was just as mind-numbingly long), I could hardly miss it, as this was our local group's 30th Anniversary - which corresponded <em>exactly</em> with the date of our annual party. But more on that in a moment...<br /><br /></span><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoSFGiyzDRI/AAAAAAAAA7Q/Vi7yPENLQKQ/s1600-h/Pennsic-72-(front).jpg"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 211px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 99px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5369563003198049554" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoSFGiyzDRI/AAAAAAAAA7Q/Vi7yPENLQKQ/s200/Pennsic-72-(front).jpg" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">Along for the ride, as always, was my very own portable bar (which some of you may recall I promised pictures of <em>last</em> year). Finally having gotten around to actually getting photos taken of the thing, I reasoned that this is the perfect opportunity to present my hand-built creation in all it's devious detail, including its spirited contents. This handy tool & workspace is a direct solution to the <strong>many</strong> frustrations I often encountered at my first bartending gig; a catering outfit.<br /><br /></span><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRhh5VqVTI/AAAAAAAAA6Y/826J-ROkXWI/s1600-h/Pennsic+060+(fromleft).JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 209px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 157px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5369523890687726898" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRhh5VqVTI/AAAAAAAAA6Y/826J-ROkXWI/s200/Pennsic+060+(fromleft).JPG" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">The overall design is fairly straightforward - three moulded countertops of treated mahogany, poplar & oak which bolt together discretely to form a back-bar with plenty of work & storage space. Straight and rear-facing angled legs of spun oak screw onto plates on the bottom. A number of "speed rail" boxes which fit into several positions on the bar surfaces (dependant on my needs at a given event) via fitted wooden pegs. Space for additional spirits runs along these boxes (which are watertight, so that ice may be placed inside of them in especially hot conditions) with a large drawer & watertight hinged box providing additional storage space for tools or miscellaneous items.<br /><br /></span><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRhioU0RHI/AAAAAAAAA6g/AxieKIfCa-Y/s1600-h/Pennsic+112+(full).JPG"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 193px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 210px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5369523903300650098" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRhioU0RHI/AAAAAAAAA6g/AxieKIfCa-Y/s200/Pennsic+112+(full).JPG" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">Other features include folding hooks on the bottom of each segment from which small baskets can be hung, a wall-mounted bottle-opener on one of the legs, an angled marble cutting board (complete with a removable trough for catching juice & seeds) and a pair of inset stainless steel foodservice bins for holding my bar tools. Bottles of Simple and Demerara syrups are mounted on a speed pouring rack (which dispenses 1 oz. pours), a butane-powered burner provides heat for warm drinks or making syrups when necessary. A combination of magnetic lights and lanterns provide me with light in the evenings and a sterile space is alotted for drying & storing my glassware. And yes, good reader, I bring glassware out camping...<br /><br /></span><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRm3d-JAxI/AAAAAAAAA64/l4OvmQl78rs/s1600-h/War13.jpg"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 196px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 147px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5369529758856577810" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRm3d-JAxI/AAAAAAAAA64/l4OvmQl78rs/s200/War13.jpg" /></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">A pair of double-walled coolers accomadates my mixers (Vermouths, Champagne, soda, juices, additional fruit &c.) and Ice, respectively. As ice can be a devilish thing to maintain without refrigeration in hot weather, I do the best I can by procuring several 10lb. blocks of ice, then pack cubed ice around these. For stirred drinks (or others requiring careful control of dilution) I utilize a brass hammer and ice pick to secure suitable chunks from the blocks, while shaken drinks get a combination of cubed & block ice (with careful attention paid to shaking times & temperatures). And as for what I actually stocked for all this mixing; my selections are listed from left to right more or less as they appear on the bar itself (pictures courtesy of the incomparable Ken Cleary):<br /><br /><strong><u>Gin</u></strong><br />Plymouth, Bols Oude Genever, Bols Genever, Boodles, Bluecoat, Tanqueray, Right, Beefeater, Beefeater 24, Martin Miller's, Distillery 209, Citadelle Reserve, Magellan.<br /><strong><u></u></strong><br /><strong><u><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoOiOAb3gBI/AAAAAAAAA5g/ErScjJBKauc/s1600-h/War-1-strainers.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 147px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 213px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5369313542274514962" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoOiOAb3gBI/AAAAAAAAA5g/ErScjJBKauc/s200/War-1-strainers.jpg" /></a>Syrups</u></strong><br />Gomme, Pineapple Gomme, Ginger, Falernum, Cinnamon, Orgeat, </span><a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/05/dash-of-flavor-orgeat.html"><span style="font-size:85%;">Horchata de Melon</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">, Raspberry, Passionfruit, Elderflower, Berry-Apple Shrub, </span><a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/05/flirting-with-flora-hibiscus.html"><span style="font-size:85%;">Hibiscus Grenadine</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">.<br /><strong><u></u></strong><br /><strong><u>Brandy</u></strong><br />Salignac Cognac, Lautrec VS Cognac, Cardinal Mendoza Solera Gran Reserva, Fundador Solera Reserva, BarSol Quebranta Pisco, Laird's Bonded Apple Brandy, Metaxa 5-star.<br /><u><strong></strong></u><br /><u><strong>Whiskey</strong> </u><br />Sazerac 3yr & Old Overholt Rye(s), Hudson, Bulleit, Old Graddad & Evan Williams 7yr Bourbon(s), Yamazaki 12yr, Pig's Nose Scotch.<br /><strong><u></u></strong><br /><strong><u>Rum & Cachaça</u></strong><br />Brugal white, ONO white, Cavalier Antigua white, Ron Zacapa 23, Mount Gay XO, Appleton's V/X, Rhum Barbancourt 3-star, El Dorado 5yr Demerara, Neisson Rhum Agricole Blanc, Sailor Jerry spiced, Lemon Hart 151° Demerara; Boca Loca, Leblon & Inacca 5yr Cachaças.<br /><strong><u></u></strong><br /><strong><u><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRm3KkwkTI/AAAAAAAAA6w/hLMYqM6I6ng/s1600-h/Pennsic+064+-+(right).JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 207px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 158px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5369529753649844530" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRm3KkwkTI/AAAAAAAAA6w/hLMYqM6I6ng/s200/Pennsic+064+-+(right).JPG" /></a>Bitters & Tinctures</u></strong><br />Angostura, Peychaud's, Regan's Orange, Angostura Orange, Fee's Peach & WBA, Spiced Lemon #1, Honey-Tangerine, Boker's, Improved Bitters mix; Orange Flower Water, Rosewater, Jasmine, Tahitian & Bourbon Vanilla(s), Candied Ginger; Atomizers of Del Maguey SV Mescal & </span><a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2009/06/perhaps-in-response-to-recent-country.html"><span style="font-size:85%;">Bitters Mist</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">.<br /><strong><u></u></strong><br /><strong><u>Tequila & Mescal</u></strong><br />Inocente Plata, Tequila Ocho Plata 2008 & 2009, El Jimador Reposado, Del Maguey SV Mescal.<br /><strong><u></u></strong><br /><strong><u>Amaro, Pastis & Absinthe</u></strong><br />Pimm's No. 1 Cup, Torani Amer (Picon), Zucca Rabarbaro Amaro, Amaro Nonino, Fernet Branca, Campari, Aperol; Pastis au Violette, Herbsaint, Pernod; Vieux Carre, Obsello, Kübler Absinthes.<br /><strong></strong><br /><strong><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoOiPRFJYPI/AAAAAAAAA5w/h3Pb-i7ps3w/s1600-h/War-9-Speed+Spirits.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 131px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5369313563922489586" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoOiPRFJYPI/AAAAAAAAA5w/h3Pb-i7ps3w/s200/War-9-Speed+Spirits.jpg" /></a><u>Speed Spirits</u> </strong><br />Benedictine, Grand Marnier, Luxardo Maraschino, Amaro Abano & Amaretto, Yellow Chartreuse, Carpano Punt e Mes, Morello Cherry-infused Carpano Antica Formula, house dry Vermouth, house sweet Vermouth.<br /><strong><u></u></strong><br /><strong><u>Wines & Liqueurs</u></strong><br />Dry Sack & Lustau PX Sherry(s), Cockburn's Ruby Port; Cointreau, Tuaca, Marie Brizard Apry, Tia Maria, Hiram Walker Crème de Cassis & Crème de Cacao, Chateau Trimbach Pear, Domaine de Canton Ginger.<br /><strong><u></u></strong><br /><strong><u>Vodka</u></strong><br />Oval, Van Gogh Espresso, Zubrowska.</span><br />---<br /><br /><strong>...And (<em>Quite</em>) Successful Parties</strong><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoOiN2bhOhI/AAAAAAAAA5Y/5xx2nXwY0gw/s1600-h/Party-6-Crowd.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 230px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 180px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5369313539588700690" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoOiN2bhOhI/AAAAAAAAA5Y/5xx2nXwY0gw/s200/Party-6-Crowd.jpg" /></a>As I mentioned previously, our local group reached its thirtieth year of existence this year, fortuitously on the precise date of our annual Pennsic party. And despite the intense chill of the evening (heralded by a poor, if ultimately inaccurate, weather forecast) after our best estimates, somewhere in the vicinity of one thousand people passed through our camp over the course of the evening!! </span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoOiQMiI0eI/AAAAAAAAA54/9I06vOwj-Ac/s1600-h/PartyPoi6.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 151px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 195px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5369313579881779682" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoOiQMiI0eI/AAAAAAAAA54/9I06vOwj-Ac/s200/PartyPoi6.jpg" /></a>I daresay our reputation for hospitality and entertainment won us this more than steady influx of guests, and in that regard we surely did not disappoint. </span><span style="font-size:85%;">As we were perhaps the only camp group at this years' event to procure the proper licensing (admittedly something never before needed at Pennsic) for fire-spinners (i.e. Poi), we were visited by large a number of this art's master practioners (as pictured at left & below). </span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRhhadcsKI/AAAAAAAAA6Q/7yH79tyWtsM/s1600-h/PartyPoi7.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 184px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 193px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5369523882398888098" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRhhadcsKI/AAAAAAAAA6Q/7yH79tyWtsM/s200/PartyPoi7.jpg" /></a>Similarly, and much like </span><a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/08/what-is-it-good-for.html"><span style="font-size:85%;">last year's festivities</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">, we provided kegs and cases of beer & hard cider (Guinness, Smithwicks & Woodchuck); all were tapped before the night's end. As my own contribution to the event, I prepared and served up a large volume (15 Gallons in-total) of batched libations for our guests' pleasure. One of these was a slight variation on a <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2009/06/perhaps-in-response-to-recent-country.html">warm beverage</a> (at ~55°F it was quite chilly after all) compunded in moderate batches all evening long to help our guests (and me) fend off the evening's chill. These libations (including an unplanned, yet thoroughly delicious addition prepared <em>a la minute</em>) went something like this:<br /><br /><strong><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRhgp0y3GI/AAAAAAAAA6A/2fuZtfNHpf8/s1600-h/PartyPoi4.jpg"><span style="font-size:85%;"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 217px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 166px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5369523869343472738" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRhgp0y3GI/AAAAAAAAA6A/2fuZtfNHpf8/s200/PartyPoi4.jpg" /></span></a>Swamp Sunshine</strong></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">200 oz. Peach-infused Vodka, <em>house-made</em> 60 oz. Saffron-infused Bianco Vermouth, <em>house-made</em><br />20 oz. Canton Ginger Liqueur<br />200 oz. Peach Nectar<br />60 oz. Ginger syrup<br />20 oz. fresh Lemon juice<br />1½ oz. Fee’s Peach bitters<br />½ oz. <a href="http://www.chow.com/recipes/11279">Sunshine bitters</a> (modified to include Quassia bark) </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">4x fresh Peaches, <em>julienned</em><br /><em>Combine ingredients in a 5-Gal cooler & stir very well to incorporate. Prior to serving, add a 7lb. block of ice and stir well to chill. Serve over ice & top with 1 oz. of Seltzer (fresh from an iSi siphon).</em></span><br /><em><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></em><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRhhMVUL4I/AAAAAAAAA6I/77t1D78CoBI/s1600-h/PartyPoi5.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 154px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 207px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5369523878606679938" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRhhMVUL4I/AAAAAAAAA6I/77t1D78CoBI/s200/PartyPoi5.jpg" /></a>East's Interdiction</strong></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">300 oz. Sandeman's Ruby Port & Lustau PX Sherry (house-aged blend, 3:1)<br />4 oz. Lemon Hart 151° Demerara Rum<br />---<br />80 oz. → 64 oz. distilled Water, <em>mulled & reduced in advance with</em>:<br />* 15x Allspice berries, <em>bruised</em><br />* 15x blades Mace<br />* 10x Canela Cinnamon sticks, <em>bruised</em><br />* 10x Green Cardamom pods, <em>bruised</em><br />---<br />36 oz. superfine white Sugar<br />24 oz. candied Ginger<br />30x fresh Oranges<br />10x fresh Lemons<br />80x whole Cloves<br />Bitters mist, <em>for brûlée</em><br />Nutmeg, <em>for garnish </em><br /><em>Quarter the Oranges & Lemons and stick each segment with 2 whole Cloves. Reserve over ice. Prepare mulled Water by bringing specified spices & 80 oz. of distilled Water to a boil. Simmer until reduced to 64 oz. then fine-strain solids from water & reserve.<br /><br /></em><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRm4bHB3JI/AAAAAAAAA7I/hB8INHd0eeI/s1600-h/Party-7-EI(Bishop).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 185px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 134px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5369529775268420754" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRm4bHB3JI/AAAAAAAAA7I/hB8INHd0eeI/s200/Party-7-EI(Bishop).jpg" /></a>To compound each batch </span><span style="font-size:85%;">(<em>prepared here in 8 batches to ensure warmth</em>):<em> </em></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Combine the following in a large pan:</em><br />15x Orange segments<br />5x Lemon segments<br />8 oz. mulled Water<br />---<br /><em>Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat & add</em>:<br />4½ oz. superfine Sugar<br />3 oz. candied Ginger<br />---<br /><em><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRm36SrC9I/AAAAAAAAA7A/0y4StfUd7RM/s1600-h/Party1.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 132px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 185px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5369529766458887122" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRm36SrC9I/AAAAAAAAA7A/0y4StfUd7RM/s200/Party1.jpg" /></a>Carefully brûlée the pan's contents with the Bitters Mist (for approximately ten to fifteen seconds), then add </em>37½ oz. Port-Sherry blend <em>and continue to warm over medium-high heat until steaming. Add </em>½ oz. 151° Demerara Rum<em> and carefully ignite. Flame for approximately thirty to forty seconds before extinguishing with the pan's lid. Remove from heat and pour the entire mixture in a heatproof 5-Gal cooler. Serve in 3-4 oz. portions with a grate of fresh Nutmeg over the top.</em><br /></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">The next beverage had great sentimental value for many of the older members of our group, though I'll admit, I varied the ingredients towards the fresher side. Nevertheless (or perhaps <em>because</em> of my alterations) it vanished alarmingly quickly:<br /><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRm2nDydiI/AAAAAAAAA6o/60C4ZOGt5xI/s1600-h/Party5.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 196px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 146px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5369529744116315682" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SoRm2nDydiI/AAAAAAAAA6o/60C4ZOGt5xI/s200/Party5.jpg" /></a>Lynchburg Lemonade</strong><br />20 oz. Bulleit Bourbon<br />20 oz. Old Granddad Bourbon<br />20 oz. Old Overholt Rye<br />30 oz. Cointreau<br />40 oz. fresh Lemon juice<br />10 oz. fresh Orange juice<br />20 oz. Simple syrup<br />10 oz. candied Citron syrup<br />64 oz. Seltzer<br /><em>Combine all ingredients except Seltzer in a 2½-Gal Cooler & stir well to incorporate. Prior to serving, add a 3lb. block of ice & gently stir in Seltzer </em>(2x full iSi siphons)<em>.</em> </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">As the 'Lynchburg (& its accompanying libations) was relatively short-lived, as the crowd waned (briefly) I made my way to the portable bar at the rear of camp, to quickly prepare a new batch of beverages. I struck upon the bottle of Pineapple Gomme syrup (originally intended for Pisco Punch) & immediately recalled a drink of a different variety:</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><br />Developed by the inestimable Eryn Reece of NYC's <a href="http://www.louis649.com/live/">Louis 649</a>, the recipe (which I tripled; substituting in a bottle of <em>ordinary</em> Beefeater and 2 oz. of green Tea) for Desmond Punch was apparently crafted to honor Beefeater's master distiller (and creator of Beefeater 24) Demond Payne. Quite a tribute, I must say! </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Despite the presence of Gin (sadly, a touchy subject for many), this wonderful punch lasted for even less time than its' predecessors and recieved <strong>many</strong> compliments from our guests. Check out the step-by-step recipe in the video stream at below (with Ms. Reece herself; courtesy of Embury Cocktails) - I promise you'll be delighted with the results...<br /><br /><object style="WIDTH: 490px; HEIGHT: 302px" width="340" height="285"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/iLpjd7_XkPE&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0&color1=0x3a3a3a&color2=0x999999&border=1"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><br /><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/iLpjd7_XkPE&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0&color1=0x3a3a3a&color2=0x999999&border=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="500" height="315"></embed></object></span><br />---<br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">And so, after returning (dead tired) from Pennsic, the last of my travels is complete. Consequently, my long absence from authoring long-winded articles here is now over and regularly-scheduled (!?) posts will begin apearing soon. </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Throughout my time away I have been far from idle, learning of and experimenting with all manner of new (or at least new to me) ingredients, tricks, ideas & recipes. Many of these & more will be appearing here over the next few weeks - as a teaser, next up is a bit of fun to have with your pet soda siphon - so be sure to tune back in soon...<br /><br /><br />Cheers!<br /><br />***<br /><em>An enormous thanks to <strong>everyone</strong> from both 'Tales & Pennsic (and anyone in between) who has made these last few weeks an absolute pleasure; especially to those of you who were kind enough to share your excellent photography (Ken, Anna, Dani, Susan - you guys rock)!</em> </span>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-6103409652215763292009-06-21T10:00:00.003-04:002009-06-21T14:54:26.262-04:00A Warm Drink...<span style="font-size:85%;">...sort of. Perhaps in response to the recent country-wide (by all reports) absence of summery weather, I recently found myself craving the warm flavor of a delightful (and very old) drink which I often compound in the wintertime; a concoction called a Bishop...<br /><br />The first written reference to the Bishop - which is really just a variation on the concept of a flavored or spiced (i.e. mulled) wine - of which I am aware is from 1827 in the first edition of Richard 'Cicero' Cook's<em> <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=YWYDAAAAQAAJ&pg=PP7&dq=oxford+night+caps,+1827">Oxford Night Caps</a></em>. However, in its' description of the beverage, this text claims the drink was known to appear in the records of the oldest established Colleges (which would eventually become Oxford); referenced as early as 1447!<br /></span><div><div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span> </div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">Now, the recipe as put to paper in 1827 is a truly fantastic drink for the depths of winter - involving the roasting of a Clove-studded Lemon, the mulling of Cinnamon, Mace, Nutmeg and Allspice in water and a fiery reduction of heated Port or Claret wine. Said reciept also includes an addendum, stating that, "Oranges, though not used in Bishop at Oxford, are [...] sometimes introduced into that beverage." Let it be known gentle reader, that though I am decidedly <em>not</em> an Oxford man, I still use their recipe (<em>with</em> Oranges mind you) for preparing this wintertime cup (and frankly, so should you). </span></div><br /><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=QDUEAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA72&img=1&zoom=3&hl=en&sig=ACfU3U30KEqZe65uUjflghtHC6hCXB8o7g&ci=200%2C482%2C511%2C304&edge=0"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 240px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 124px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://books.google.com/books?id=QDUEAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA72&img=1&zoom=3&hl=en&sig=ACfU3U30KEqZe65uUjflghtHC6hCXB8o7g&ci=200%2C482%2C511%2C304&edge=0" /></a>But we are not, despite the unseasonably-chill & moist weather, in the grips of winter, so what use is bringing up a hot cocktail now? The answer (or part of it) lies, as it often does, in the works of <a href="http://www.cocktailkingdom.com/content/the-bartenders-guide-how-mix-drinks-a-bon-vivants-companion">Jerry Thomas</a>, who lists <em>two</em> Bishops in his venerable books. The first is a simplified "English Bishop", prepared and served hot as the 'wags at Oxford would have scoffed at (using Oranges), whereas the second is compounded differently, using that glorious invention - ice. As you will note at left, in his recipe for the cold "Protestant" Bishop, Thomas also calls for a small quantity of flavorful Santa Cruz or Jamaican rum to impart some of the spice character which would otherwise be absent from the drink. </span></div><br /><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">Now, while the "Protestant" Bishop makes for a great drink as written, it lacks much of the toasty, caramelized spice flavors which lend the English variety its considerable appeal; so what's a cocktailian to do? Blend the most favorable qualities & techniques of all the recipes, with a few <a href="http://www.jeffreymorgenthaler.com/2007/how-to-make-an-angostura-scorched-pisco-sour/">borrowed</a> <a href="http://maxologist.blogspot.com/2009/03/blazing-irish-coffee-less.html">modern</a> <a href="http://spiritsandcocktails.wordpress.com/2007/06/07/rosewater-rickey/">twists</a>, like so:</span></div><br /><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sj54g51Dx8I/AAAAAAAAA3c/qeQ0oOUQmqs/s1600-h/BishopBrulee3.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 227px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 153px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5349845914037241794" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sj54g51Dx8I/AAAAAAAAA3c/qeQ0oOUQmqs/s200/BishopBrulee3.jpg" /></a><span style="font-size:100%;">Bishop Brûlée</span></strong></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">3 oz. Ruby Port</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">Bitters Mist (see below)</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">---</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1½ wheels: fresh Orange</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1 wheel: fresh Lemon</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1 Tsp. superfine white Sugar</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">3x whole Cloves</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1 slice: candied Ginger</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Combine the fruit & dry ingredients in a mixing glass. Using a Misto sprayer (or another pump-atomizer), spray a little of the Bitters mist </em></span><span style="font-size:85%;">[a 1:1 mixture of Angostura bitters & Lemon Hart 151° Demerara Rum]<em> over the ingredients. <strong>Carefully</strong> brûlée the ingredients by spraying short bursts of the mist into the glass, rotating it slowly to ensure an even distribution of the flame. Once the sugar has caramelized, add the Port with ice & shake well. Fine-strain into a chilled Sour glass & garnish with a grate of fresh Nutmeg. </em></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><em></em><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">The resulting libation gifts the Port with a pleasant, not-too sweet melange of the roasted citrus, toasty spice & carmelized sugar flavors of the original varieties; all in-conjunction with the chilled, easily (sort of) compounded nature of the "Protestant" version. It also has the advantage of an <em>impressive</em> spot of presentation. In fine-tuning the recipe over the past (all-too wet & chilly) weekend at 'Clover, many of our guests were well-pleased at the warming characteristics of this otherwise cold libation (as well as the show), and I hope you will be too...just be careful with the fire please...<br /><br /></span></div><div><em><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></em></div><div><em><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></em></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">Cheers & Enjoy!</span></div></div></div>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-7533178886968374172009-06-01T15:39:00.001-04:002009-06-03T18:42:23.197-04:00Foggy Origins...<span style="font-size:85%;">The world of classic cocktails and venerable mixed drinks is often a decidedly-murky one. As <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/07/those-crazy-old-romans.html">past</a> <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2009/04/over-border-to-find-fix.html">articles</a> here and elsewhere have shown, the specifics or provenance of a given recipe may not always be clear - a characteristic of most any historical researches; much less one so liberally soaked in 'the sauce...</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">For example, a drink published at one point in history might hail from a recipe that is, in fact, far older. Many old bar guides (and lots of new ones too) - including those written by individuals who are widely-considered masters - often dredge up <em>vast</em> collections of recipes pillaged verbatim from still-older sources. To further complicate matters, in many cases a formula presented in one source will profit (or suffer) from modifications foisted upon it by a clever fellow (who then further compounds the record by printing their personalized version elsewhere). This is often even further complicated by changes to (or the sheer unavailibility of) a beverage's component ingredients: take, for instance, <a href="http://underhill-lounge.flannestad.com/">Erik Ellestead</a>'s longstanding <a href="http://underhill-lounge.flannestad.com/2009/05/17/hercules-recipes/">search for Hercules</a>.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Finally, the art of mixing drinks has often been an intensely-secretive one; particularly those recipes hailing from the Tiki era of mixology, wherein rival establishments (Trader Vic & Don Beach, for example) jealously guarded their formulations. Sometimes the very bartenders mixing the drinks didn't even know precisely what the components were! </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Under such circumstances, envision a further complication: a patron at one establishment might have enjoyed one such drink so much that, upon visiting a different bar, they would ask for the concoction by name. The bartender at this second spot, wanting to accomodate their customer, but lacking almost any idea as to the composition of the drink being asked after, would come up with <em>something</em>. This drink, perhaps a great one, but likely having nothing to do with its called-for predecessor, would then be disseminated as an X, Y, or Z cocktail, and the original would become even murkier. Hence, for example, the dozens of "Mai-Tai" recipes served accross the globe (and the "necessity" for a recent </span><a href="http://rumdood.com/archive/2009/01/26/a-month-of-mai-tais.aspx"><span style="font-size:85%;">online Mai-Tai showdown</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">)! </span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Frankly, in the end I suppose it all comes down to mixing up something balanced that tastes good, and historical conventions be damned (or at least given a cordial nod from behind the mixing glass). Key words there - "balanced" and "good". Such is certainly the case with the following drink: </span><br /><br /><strong><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sib40yM4hzI/AAAAAAAAA24/UHCyzExnYJ4/s1600-h/Cocktails+2008-05-02+024(Fog+Cutter2)2a.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 108px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 169px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5343231593634367282" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sib40yM4hzI/AAAAAAAAA24/UHCyzExnYJ4/s200/Cocktails+2008-05-02+024(Fog+Cutter2)2a.jpg" /></a>The Fog Cutter</strong><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">is widely-attributed (on record) to Trader Vic; he certainly published it as such several times from 1946 on. However, according to Ted Haigh in <em><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1592530680?ie=UTF8&tag=anexerinhospa-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1592530680">Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails</a></em> the beverage was known to an original Don the Beachcomber's bartender by the name of Tony Ramos, who claims the drink was originated prior to 'Vic & Don's rivalry at an establishment called Edna Earle's Fogcutters in Hollywood, CA. Take a look at this (somewhat) foggy progression:</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Fog Cutter </strong>(Trader Vic's Book of Food & Drink, 1946)</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">"<em>This is delicious, but a triple-threat. You can get pretty stinking on these, no fooling.</em>" </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">2 oz. [light] Puerto Rican Rum (Ron Merito, Boca Chica, or Brugal)</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1 oz. Brandy</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Gin</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1 oz. [fresh] Orange juice</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">2 oz. [fresh] Lemon juice</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Orgeat syrup</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Sherry wine float</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Shake with cracked ice </em>[everything but the Sherry]<em>, pour into a tall glass </em>[14 oz. Chimney]<em> with ice, and add Sherry wine float </em>[½ oz. of <em>sweet</em> Sherry]<em>. Serve with straws.</em> </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Fog Cutter </strong>(Don the Beachcomber, date unknown)<br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Orgeat syrup</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">2 oz. Gold Puerto Rican Rum (Bacardi is specified)</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1 oz. Pisco</span> brandy<br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Plymouth Gin</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Gozalez Sucis Sherry</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1 oz. [fresh] Orange juice</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">2 oz. [fresh] Lemon juice</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Shake with ice </em>[everything but the Sherry]<em>, pour into a Chimney glass and add more ice to fill. Float Sherry. </em></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong></strong></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong></strong></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Fog Cutter</strong> (Tony Ramos via Ted Haigh)</span><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1 oz. white Rum</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Gin</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Brandy</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Sweet & Sour mix</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">2 dashes Simple syrup</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">[Cherry Brandy float]</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Combine </em>[all but the Cherry Brandy] <em>with ice and blend. Pour into a goblet. Add a float </em>[~¾ oz.] <em>of cherry-flavored Brandy </em>[Cherry Heering]<em> on-top, and serve.</em></span> <span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">In the first two cases, the recipes are fairly similar - slightly different in their porportion of light to dark spirits (or young & aged if you prefer), but each is a well-balanced take on the same flavor profile. And yet, the third, somehow - almost impossibly considering it's barebones list of ingredients (containing <em>sour mix</em> of all things!) - tastes <em>strikingly</em> similar to the first two. Not that the three are identical - each has its own subtle differences, but in a fit of pure conjecture, I'm willing to venture that the three could certainly be linked by a succession of bartenders working to prepare a drink (or their own variation on it) either on the fly or in imitation. In the end, all are well-made, tasty and balanced libations and that is really the point. So I won't go any further speculating about which drink came first or what variation constitutes the "real" recipe...<br /><br />I'll just contribute a fourth variation, quite literally inspired as I sat at a recent <a href="http://www3.timeoutny.com/newyork/the-feed-blog/restaurants-bars/2009/05/booze-beat-dispatches-from-the-new-york-gin-symposium/">symposium</a> on Gin (sponsored by Beefeater), and makes delicious use of two ingredients with which I have only recently become acquainted. The smooth, mellow botanicals flavors of <a href="http://blog.mixoloseum.com/beefeater-24-cocktails/">Beefeater 24 Gin</a> and the sinfully-sweet & fruity <a href="http://www.emilio-lustau.com/solera-two.htm#emilio">Lustau Capataz Andres Cream</a> Sherry both bring interesting elements to the final flavor profile. Together in-proportion to the other ingredients, I think this one achieves a lovely melange of the flavors of all three of its predecessors (even Mr. Ramos'); alongside some new & interesting floral and botanical notes, but don't take my word for it (©):<br /><br /></span><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SiPtJqP1qRI/AAAAAAAAA2w/KJR9j5ZD15g/s1600-h/Cocktails+2008-05-02+023(Fog+Cutter1).jpg"><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 139px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 223px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5342374333206866194" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SiPtJqP1qRI/AAAAAAAAA2w/KJR9j5ZD15g/s200/Cocktails+2008-05-02+023(Fog+Cutter1).jpg" /></strong></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>London Fog</strong></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">2 oz. Beefeater 24 Gin</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">¾ oz. El Dorado 5yr Demerara Rum</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">¾ oz. Salignac Cognac</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">¾ oz. Lustau Capataz Andres Sherry float (sub a quality Cream Sherry)</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">2 oz. fresh Lemon juice</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1 oz. fresh Orange juice</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Orgeat syrup </span><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Combine ingredients, except Sherry, in a mixing glass with cracked ice. Shake well & strain into a 14 oz. Chimney glass mostly-filled with cracked ice. Float Sherry & serve with a straw.</em><br /></span><br /><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><br /><div><span style="font-size:85%;">Cheers, Enjoy & never take this cocktail stuff <em>too</em> seriously...</span></div><br /><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>*</strong><em>In the interest of full disclosure, samples of Beefeater 24 were provided for my use.</em></span></div>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-83644016319795632162009-04-12T10:00:00.001-04:002009-04-12T10:00:01.055-04:00Q&A: Obsello Absenta<span style="font-size:85%;">Earlier this week I was fortunate to be able to ‘sit down’ for an interview via telephone with B. Alex, the distiller of </span><a href="http://www.obsello.com/"><span style="font-size:85%;">Obsello</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">, a delightful Spanish-style Absinthe verte (or <em>Absenta</em>). Mr. Alex took some time out of his busy day at the Esmeralda distillery (he was measuring Wormwood – an unenviable task to be sure - before taking the phone) to discuss twenty-hour workdays, artisanal distillation, ingredients & Absinthe…<br /><br /><strong>‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡</strong><br /><br /><strong>Q:</strong> <em>How did you get involved with distillation and/or the spirits industry?</em><br /><strong>A:</strong> My family was involved for many years in the California winemaking industry, so I was exposed to alcohol and its production from an early age, without any of the negative stigmas often attributed to it. My interest in distillation came to a head around sixteen when, after a few AltaVista searches, I decided to try my hand at producing rum in my closet – I reasoned how hard could it be? Cane sugar and molasses from the supermarket, a packet of brewer’s yeast from the internet; in hindsight, not such a great plan…<br /><br /><strong>Q: </strong><em>And Absinthe? How did you get involved with that spirit specifically?</em><br /><strong>A:</strong> My hobbyist level of interest was put on hold when I went off to college, but around age nineteen I had been doing a great deal of reading – lots of classical writing. The presence and influence of Absinthe in and on so many examples of art and literature provided a definite appeal to me at the time, so I continued to research it.<br /><br />Eventually I was able to rather clandestinely order a bottle from the UK – a brand called Hill’s. It arrived and I set about trying some – did the whole drip preparation in my kitchen with a fork and everything – and it was just awful. Having some experience with wine, I reasoned there was just no way the French could have ever preferred something like this over say, a good Bordeaux – they’d have to be crazy! My knowledge of the distillation process had increased by then and I set about attempting to recreate a drinkable product – what I wanted Absinthe to be. A great deal of research, several hundred basic distillation attempts (with all manner of formulations) later and I had something like what I had been searching for…<br /><br /><strong>Q:</strong> <em>Why Spain, and thereby Spanish Absenta? Particularly the Catalan region where the Esmeralda distillery is located?</em><br /><strong>A:</strong> By this point I had gotten good reactions to the type of Absinthe I was making (sadly, still clandestinely) and was considering starting up a ‘mom & pop’ kind of business with my partner Joanne. We had considered several European locations, Tarragona was one choice, but we settled on the Pyrenees town of <em>Lleida</em> in Catalonia. We were very impressed by the ingredients here – particularly the quality of the local water and the high level of agriculture that takes place in the area. We had just gotten set up here when the US ban on Absinthe was lifted, so it was a something of a lucky, if crazy, time to be producing and exporting it.<br /><br /><strong>Q:</strong> <em>On that note, Obsello utilizes eight herbs in its production – are these sourced locally or from a variety of places? Do you find a difference in this choice of ingredients?</em><br /><strong>A:</strong> All of our ingredients are sourced from local (or regionally-nearby) sources – the only real exceptions are green Anise, which we get from <em>Alicante</em>; and Hyssop flowers, which comes from just across the border in southern France.<br /><br />As for ingredients - absolutely. The climate and terrior of every region makes for huge differences in the end product - take Anise for example. The green Anise you get in the US, especially California, comes almost exclusively from Turkey and tends to be much less sweet. In Spain it comes from <em>Alicante</em> and has a much more intense, Clove-like sweetness. When we got out here [<em>Spain</em>] I tried out a batch of my original formula using ingredients we had picked up locally and it was terrible. It took almost seven months to rework the formula, but now we’re able to give Obsello a “just-in-the nick-of-time” approach – as they come in we can make Absinthe with entirely fresh ingredients, each expressing their own particular character.<br /><br /><strong>Q:</strong> <em>As I understand it, the neutral grape spirit you use as a base for Obsello comes from the </em>Penedès<em> region of Spain - an area that is very similar in climate and terroir to certain parts of the French Cognac region. Any relationship there?</em><br /><strong>A:</strong> It’s true – the <em>Penedès</em> region is pretty famous - the Spanish equivalent to Napa in California and is known for producing both Cava and a funky, near-Champagne style of sparkling wine made from Chardonnay grapes. The grape distillate we use as a base comes from a blend of three grapes - <em>Macabeo</em>, <em>Parellada</em> and <em>Xarel-lo</em>; which are generally used in making Cava. Really, the whole area has a longstanding tradition of winemaking, but yes, the dry, thin style of white wine you tend to get from areas with that sort of climate is perfect for making a spirit like Absinthe or Cognac.<br /><br />In almost all high-quality Absinthe, the base is from distillates of white wine - Chardonnay grapes are used alot in other brands. The main idea being that you don’t want a base with too much character or dominant flavors of its own – you get those from the herbs you’re macerating in the base.<br /><br /><strong>Q:</strong> <em>Speaking of herbs, Obsello has a definite herbal-citrus flavor in the profile and a less-dominant Anise flavor than most Absinthe. It’s also a good bit sweeter than other varieties I’ve tried. Is this a characteristic of the Absenta style, or a more personal formulation?</em><br /><strong>A:</strong> There are a number of factors there. First, my recipe for Obsello is very personal – it’s the type of Absinthe I wanted to make. A key characteristic of say, most French Absinthe is the emphasis on Anise - and though it is present in Obsello I did not want it to be overly dominant. With Obsello, in the Spanish style, we use Melissa [<em>Lemon Balm</em>] and Coriander to achieve the citrus element that you’re tasting. I wanted a product that had personality, with plenty of secondary flavors rather than an “Anise-bomb”, so many aspects of this style - and my interpretation on it - is ideal for me.<br /><br />As for the sweetness, that’s mostly the green Anise we use – again, from <em>Alicante</em>. It is much sweeter, with a less heavy “black licorice” flavor than the varieties you’ll find coming from elsewhere – so this is definitely a characteristic of the Spanish style. However, there are numerous plant sugars present in our botanicals and the process of distillation breaks down many of them into the final product. To give you some idea, in a roughly four foot-high alembic still, we’ve got almost three and-a-half feet filled up with Wormwood, roots, herbs and flowers, so some of the sweetness also derives from the latter three.<br /><br />Finally, almost any good Absinthe should have some amount of sweetness, or at least an absence of extreme bitterness. Even though Wormwood contains <em>Absenthium</em> – one of the most bitter substances known to man - in a carefully-controlled distillation, that compound should be left behind in the still. I think that excessive bitterness in Absinthe is not a desirable quality and shows signs of mistakes being made in the distillation of the product, but on the same turn, deliberate sweeteners should never be added to an Absinthe, so it all comes down to a carefully-controlled process.<br /><br /><strong>Q:</strong> <em>I’ve worked with Lemon Balm a bit in tinctures and bitters before and now that you mention it, am wondering – is this where the paler, almost yellow, color of Obsello comes from?</em><br /><strong>A:</strong> Exactly; much of the coloration there derives from the chlorophyll in Melissa, as opposed to that in Pontica [<em>Petite Absinthe</em> or <em>Roman Wormwood</em>] used to color proper French Absinthe, or worse, the artificial colorants used in inferior styles or brands.<br /><br /><strong>Q:</strong> <em>Without delving too deeply into the specifics or recipe, what ingredients or steps in producing Obsello make it so different? For instance, I’ve found that at a certain point in the taste-profile a curious Vanilla character emerges (and is faintly-present in the aroma of the spirit). What can you tell me about that?</em><br /><strong>A:</strong> Well, first, Grand Wormwood naturally contains trace amounts of Vanillin. Having said that, it bears mentioning that nearly everyone producing Absinthe these days uses a 19th century distillation reference – </span><a href="http://www.lulu.com/content/paperback-book/manufacture-distillation-of-alcoholic-liquors-by-pduplais-the-most-important-19th-century-distilling-guide-the-bible-of-absinthe-distillation-facsimile-of-the-1871-english-edition/1749713"><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>The Manufacture & Distillation Alcoholic Liquors</em></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> by P. Duplais – which contains a large number of very good recipes for Absinthe. However, there is an error that arises when following this guide – it doesn’t always take into account certain delicate variables in the overall process.<br /><br />Now, this resource hasn’t always been widely-available, but largely due to all the trial and error work I had done in the past (before I had come into contact with the work myself), I started to observe how small changes to a variety of factors can greatly affect the end result. Again, it all comes down to a very careful process, maintaining control is the biggest factor in determining the end product – especially one as sensitive as an herbal spirit like Absinthe.<br /><br /><strong>Q:</strong> <em>It seems that Obsello is bottled at a fairly low proof as compared to other Absinthes I’ve seen or tried – why is this?</em><br /><strong>A:</strong> It has a lot to do with international beverage and duty-free (on our warehouse) laws – we export Obsello all over so this proof keeps us good everywhere. Also, different people enjoy Absinthe in many different ways – some of them like it straight or even in shots. I don’t really agree with the latter method but if that’s how they want it... A higher-proof Absinthe can be difficult to enjoy in this way, that is, without the addition of water, so we try to produce a product everyone can enjoy.<br /><br /><strong>Q:</strong> <em>On this note, I see that you recommend Obsello in a drip at a 3:1 Water:Absinthe ratio, but in my own tastings have found a 2:1 ratio much more enjoyable. I’ve also tried it with varying amounts of sugar – everything from none to about 1½ teaspoons (which was too much). How do you take </em>your<em> Absinthe?</em><br /><strong>A:</strong> This is very much up to the individual and what kinds of drinks they tend to like. I like Obsello at a 2:1 ratio and have found that about ¾ of a teaspoon of sugar is a good quantity for a drip preparation.<br /><br /><strong>Q:</strong> <em>Much as I enjoy Absinthe in a drip or frappe preparation, I like cocktails. Some of my colleagues have found it good for certain drinks, like Hemmingway’s </em></span><a href="http://www.twoatthemost.com/obsello-abinthe-verte/"><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Death in the Afternoon</em></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>. I liked it alot in a Corpse Reviver #2 myself. Are there any particular libations which you’ve found Obsello works particularly well in – especially those which might highlight its’ herbal-citrus component?</em><br /><strong>A:</strong> We’re currently putting together a book of recipes from quality mixologists and bartenders. Here are a few of the drinks we’ll be including:<br /><br /><strong>Night Porter</strong><br /><em>By: Jeff Hollinger @ Absinthe Brasserie, SF</em><br />1 oz. Bianco Vermouth (Dolin Blanc)<br />¾ oz. Obsello Absenta<br />¾ oz. Ruby Port<br />½ oz. Mescal (a light style)<br /><em>Combine ingredients in a mixing glass with ice & stir. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass & garnish with a twist of fresh Lemon.</em><br /><br /><strong>Sea Fizz</strong><br /><em>By: Joseph Schwartz @ Little Branch, NYC</em><br />1½ oz. Obsello Absenta<br />¾ oz. fresh Lemon juice<br />1½-¾ oz. Simple syrup<br />1 Barspoon: superfine Sugar<br /><em>Combine ingredients in a mixing glass & dry-shake (without ice) well. Add ice & shake, strain into a highball glass. Top with chilled Soda & garnish with a wedge of fresh Lemon.<br /></em><br />‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡<strong> </strong><br /><br />My sincerest thanks to B. Alex, Joanne & Olivia Loy for allowing me to speak with them (particularly at such length) about their Absinthe. Mr. Alex demonstrated a true passion for his craft & product throughout the conversation – from his insistence on getting every minute detail of production down, demand for quality ingredients, right down to his job – he works with every small-batch distillation himself rather than outsource the formula to another operation! The commitment to making a quality product really shows in the end result & all I can say is,<br /><br />Cheers!</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>This article has been cross-posted at the <a href="http://blog.mixoloseum.com/">Mixoloseum</a> - those responsible for this have undoubtedly been sacked. For even more on Absinthe, check out fellow CSOWG member Paul Clarke's in-depth discussion with Gwydion Stone & Brian Robinson later this week...</em></span>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-20416702270783997222009-04-04T13:49:00.007-04:002009-04-05T23:42:56.910-04:00Over the Border to Find a Fix...<span style="font-size:85%;">...and through a bramble patch along the way.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">First off, no, not <em>that</em> kind of fix, but rather a curious classic libation closely intertwined with the venerable Sour family of drinks. Second, with regards to the <a href="http://www.americanpacific.com/amepac/images%5Cus-mexico-border.jpg">border</a> - ¿<em>qué pasa con eso</em>? Well, it's springtime folks, and this transitional season always brings me around to the various styles of Tequila at one point or another. As for the bramble patch...<em>ráipido wey</em>, and we'll get to that too.</span><br /><br /><strong>The Fix</strong><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">or "Fix-Up" (I'm really not doing <em>anything</em> for the name here, am I?) appeared first on a cocktail list for Mart Ackermann's Saloon in Toronto, Canada. According to Dave Wondrich in </span><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0399532870?ie=UTF8&tag=anexerinhospa-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0399532870"><em><span style="font-size:85%;">Imbibe!</span></em></a><span style="font-size:85%;">, this was in <strong>1856</strong> (you didn't really think my bar "library" included a cocktail list from <em>then</em>, did you?) and there were eight of them on the hand-dated document.<br /></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Certainly an old drink then and, according to sources I <em>do</em> possess, quite the enduring one, considering its' formula (or a derivative thereof) was considered vital knowledge well past the turn of the century. The reasoning for this is simple - a Fix, as prepared with a number of spirits, was nothing more than a Sour dressed-up fancy with "fruits in season" - Berries, Pineapple, Orange and Lemon are often recommended. It appears thusly in the 1862 edition of Jerry Thomas's </span><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1603111662?ie=UTF8&tag=anexerinhospa-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creativeASIN=1603111662"><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>How to Mix Drinks</em></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> and is seen in service under the same formula in Leo Engel's <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=kkMCAAAAQAAJ&dq=leo+engel" hl="en&ei=" ct="result&resnum=" sa="X&oi=" ots="dUgYKDV0QH&sig=" printsec="'frontcover&source="><em>American and Other Drinks</em></a> as late as 1878. Yet, sometime around the early 1880's the recipes begin to change - first individually, then as a unified category. </span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">The Gin Fix is the first of these - first getting a dose of Pineapple syrup added to it in Harry Johnson's 1882 <em><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1603111670?ie=UTF8&tag=anexerinhospa-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1603111670">Bartender's Manual</a></em>, where it is the only one recorded. But come 1884 we observe O.H. Byron has instituted a more categorical change in the drink - utilizing Pineapple syrup for all <em>five</em> of the Fixes listed in his <em><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/160311162X?ie=UTF8&tag=anexerinhospa-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=160311162X">Modern Bartender's Guide</a></em>. </span><span style="font-size:85%;">By the time we reach 1887, and with it Jerry Thomas' <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1438241747?ie=UTF8&tag=anexerinhospa-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1438241747">posthumously-edited edition</a>, we find several variations - each dependant on the spirit used in the four given Fixes. One called for Raspberry syrup, two included a little Curaçao and the Whiskey variety remained untouched. These alterations look to have been cemented by the turn of the century - we still see them in 1895 & 1900 (as well as later on) in editions of George Kappeler's <em>Modern American Drinks</em>. But <em>why</em> the sudden additions, changes & revisions to the recipe? Do we detect a touch of the same crazy variance that dogged the (equally old) formula for <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/07/those-crazy-old-romans.html">Roman Punch</a>?</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Not <em>quite</em>, I think. As previously-mentioned, the Fix <em>is</em> just a Sour built on crushed ice with a suitably-fancy garnish; quite tasty, but a little plain - particularly when the standard Sour category was also available for order. But tweak the formula by adding a flavored syrup, particularly ones flavored with the very ingredients often used to garnish the beverage, and you have a delightful drink. That the popularization of such syrups (which solved the problems of obtaining fairly-exotic fruits like Pineapple rather-handily) coincidentally (or not) occured around the same time as the changes to the recipe began appearing is an equally-strong argument for the changes made to the old formula. With the history of the Fix (& its' derivatives) established, what's up with this border..? Well, I happen to feel that one of the <em>esencial liquores</em> <em>para la primavera</em> is a bit of...</span><br /><br /><strong><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SdfHVrpTgwI/AAAAAAAAA2Y/xm-_QsacxTI/s1600-h/inocentetequila.bmp"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 107px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 203px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5320940660068680450" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SdfHVrpTgwI/AAAAAAAAA2Y/xm-_QsacxTI/s200/inocentetequila.bmp" /></a>Tequila</strong><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">in this case a Plata variety called Inocente. Produced on the other side of the much-mentioned border from a kiln-roasted <em>aguamiel</em>, or the fermentable juices from 100% Blue Agave. This ferment, or <em>pulque</em>, is distilled three times before being subjected to a wine-making method called micro-oxygenation, which is meant to soften the final products' character in a similar way to the chemical processes which take place during barrel-aging.<br /><br />The producers may have a good idea there (at least for a spirit which is meant to be unaged, as opposed to a Reposado or Añejo), for while Inocente - like many Plata Tequilas, is a thin white spirit with some heat to it (meant more for mixing than drinking straight), the aggressive character of the distilled agave is subdued to a very pleasant spice & pepper flavor, with soft floral or vegetal notes lingering in the background.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Now, while the Fix-Up was typically compounded with any of the available spirits of the day, one would be hard-pressed to order one made with a little-known (at the time) spirit like Tequila. However, the combination of Pineapple and Tequila is an excellent one & was among the first of such flavor pairings to spring to mind when I first tasted Inocente. Reasoning that the peppery notes of the spirit would balance very nicely against the rich sweeteness of <em>la piña</em>, I gave it a try in conjunction with <a href="http://www.amountainofcrushedice.com/?p=3590">Gomme</a> (or <a href="http://www.cocktailchronicles.com/2005/06/23/the-great-gomme-adventure/">Gum</a>) syrup, which added a <em>very</em> pleasant texture to the drink:</span><br /><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sdk15-QRtxI/AAAAAAAAA2o/McHwsSpL2x8/s1600-h/Fix+1.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 186px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 154px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5321343704795035410" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sdk15-QRtxI/AAAAAAAAA2o/McHwsSpL2x8/s200/Fix+1.jpg" /></a>Tequila Fix </strong><br />2 oz. Tequila (Inocente)<br />¾ oz. fresh Lime juice<br />½ oz. Pineapple Gomme syrup<br />1 Tsp. Raw sugar<br />½ oz. Seltzer<br /><em>Combine Sugar & Seltzer in an Old-Fashioned glass and stir to dissolve. Fill the glass with crushed ice & build remaining ingredients. Stir gently to mix, top with a little more crushed ice & garnish with fresh fruit in-season </em>(whole Berries & slices of Lime or Pineapple are <em>muy deseable</em>).<br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Pineapple Gomme syrup </strong><br />1 Cup: white Sugar<br />½ Cup: Water<br />Gomme Solution<br />1 Cup: fresh Pineapple, <em>cubed </em><br /><em>Prepare the Gomme solution by dissolving 2 oz. Gum Arabic crystals in 2 oz. of boiling Water - be prepared to stir for a long while. In a small saucepan prepare Simple syrup by dissolving the Sugar in the Water over medium heat. Once the mixture reaches a gentle boil, add the viscous Gomme Solution, stirring well to incorporate it. Allow to boil for a few minutes, skimming off any foam or scum that rises to the surface & remove from heat. When cool, pour over Pineapple in an airtight container & allow to steep in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Strain by preferred method & bottle. </em><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size:85%;">But what has become of the Fix in modern times? We still have the Sour of course (though that too has been subjected to all manner of undesirable change), so what of its' well-dressed cousin? The Fix, sadly, never really made it through the years leading up to Prohibition - it appears here and there, particularly in books printed overseas - but try ordering any of the varieties now. However, it would seem that the notion of a flavored Sour (i.e. what the Fix <em>became</em>) lives on in the form of: </span></p><p><strong><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sdk15nCUyZI/AAAAAAAAA2g/bplfWRqqhYk/s1600-h/Bramble1.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 137px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 188px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5321343698562501010" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sdk15nCUyZI/AAAAAAAAA2g/bplfWRqqhYk/s200/Bramble1.jpg" /></a>The Bramble</strong><span style="font-size:85%;"><br />is a more modern reworking of certain incarnations of the (long defunct) Gin Fix - the 1887+ ones what call for a touch of Raspberry syrup. It was adapted in the mid-1980's by UK barman Dick Bradsell, who, in such dimly-lit (for the cocktail) times undoubtedly had no easy access to a Raspberry syrup behind his bar. His solution? A float of Crème de Mûre (hence the "bramble" - a nickname for Rasp/Blackberry bushes) atop a lightly-sweetened Gin Sour. In the years following its' creation, in true Fix tradition, other bartenders swapped out the Gin and/or liqueur & substituted in all kinds of other spirits. While the Gin version is <em>quite</em> lovely, especially in the coming months, today we're on Tequila; so it's to the following drink that we call our attention:<br /></p></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Tequila Bramble</strong></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1½ oz. Tequila (Inocente)</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">¾ oz. fresh Lime juice</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Simple syrup</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">¾ oz. Crème de Cassis</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Build the first three ingredients in an Old-Fashioned glass mostly-filled with crushed ice. Stir, top with fresh crushed ice & float the Crème de Cassis on the top. Garnish with a slice of Lime & several fresh Blackberries. </em><br /></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">The combination of Cassis and Tequila is yet another strong (& historically-sound) pairing - the heavy, complex sweetness of the liqueur plays nicely in this instance against the thin, spicy heat of the Tequila and the Lime's bitter/sourness rounds the whole thing out. However, as with many other examples of Tequila, Inocente has a subtle floral or vegetal character, which in this instance the liqueur seems to drown out completely. To better highlight those notes while keeping the balance of the drink intact, I turned to another beverage that's common across the border (& in my refrigerator) - the <em>aguas fresca</em> called Jamaica (<strong>©</strong>):</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Flowering Bramble </strong><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">1½ oz. Tequila (Inocente)<br />¼ oz. fresh Lime juice<br />½ oz. Simple syrup<br />½ oz. Jamaica<br />¼ oz. Crème de Cassis<br /><em>Build the first three ingredients in an Old-Fashioned glass mostly-filled with crushed ice and stir briefly. In a seperate measuring glass, combine the Jamaica & Crème de Cassis. Top the built drink with fresh crushed ice & float the Jamaica-Cassis mixture on top. Garnish with a slice of Lime & several fresh Blackberries.</em></span><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Cheers & Enjoy!</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>*In the interest of full disclosure, samples of Inocente were generously provided for use. Great quantities of said sample have been consumed since...</em></span><br /></span>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-19549292455295622912009-03-27T22:45:00.010-04:002009-03-31T13:39:17.414-04:00Seasonal Produce: A Springtime Infusion, Now with Cookery!<div><span style="font-size:85%;">In a <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2009/03/last-stab-of-winter.html">previous post</a>, I discussed the virtues, however regionally-influenced, of Blood Oranges. I likewise promised to include a recipe for an infused Cachaça utilizing these delightful late winter/springtime citrus. Furthermore, it occurs to me that I haven't had any culinary examples up here in a <em>long</em> while. This is not to say I haven't been cooking (quite the opposite actually), but rather I'm usually so busy when doing so as to lack the wherewithall to photograph my little kitchen adventures...<br /><br />So, as promised, here's the infusion: short, sweet & clarified slightly from its initial appearance at the <a href="http://www.ministryofrum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1185">Ministry of Rum</a> many moons ago. As an aside, in this particular infusion, though the overall proof of the spirit (from 80 to about 75, in case you were wondering) drops somewhat due to the inclusion of certain of the ingredients, this infusion nevertheless makes a marvelous addition to spring & summertime cocktails well after Blood Oranges are out of season – an example of which I’ve included just after the recipe. You can even enjoy it (like a certain friend of mine does - on the beach for Labor Day) straight over an ice cube or two...</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Blood Orange Cachaça</strong><br />750ml: Cachaça (Pitu works well here)</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">5x fresh Blood Oranges, <em>washed</em></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">3 Tblspns. Raw Sugar</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1 Tblspn. white Sugar</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1 Tblspn. Lemongrass, <em>minced</em></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ Tsp. Cardamom, <em>removed from pods </em>(optional)</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1½ Tblspns. Water<br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡<br />1. <em>Carefully peel Blood Oranges, being sure to remove & discard all bitter pith from the skin. </em><br />2. <em>Likewise remove & discard all pith and seeds from the flesh of two of the Oranges. Seperate into segments.</em><br />3. <em>Clean & mince Lemongrass & shell Cardamom. Toast Cardamom seeds in a small pan.<br /></em>4.<em> Combine ingredients in a clean container & add Cachaça. </em><br />5.<em> Seal container & swirl/shake vigorously.<br /></em>6. <em>Place in a cool, dark location for approximately 7-10 days, swirling vigorously several times. </em><br />7. <em>Strain 2-3 times by preferred method (coffee filter, cheesecloth &c), pressing on solids to remove all liquid.</em> </span><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">8. <em>Clean container with hot water and replace liquid within. Allow to stand for one more week. </em><br />9. <em>Strain or rack again as necessary & bottle.</em> </span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Enjoy in any cocktail (as appropriate, flavor-wise) which calls for Cachaça - a Caipirinha w/ half lime & half blood orange muddled works nicely. </span><span style="font-size:85%;">Or you could try it in the following libation (or come up with your own uses – and pass them along to me in the comments section if you’re so inclined):<br /><br /><strong><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SdJTTg3wf-I/AAAAAAAAA2I/vaKn2-EPsnY/s1600-h/Sagriento+Rabo+de+Gallo+035.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 166px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 133px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5319405704584396770" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SdJTTg3wf-I/AAAAAAAAA2I/vaKn2-EPsnY/s200/Sagriento+Rabo+de+Gallo+035.jpg" /></a>Sangriento Rabo de Galo</strong></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">2 oz. Blood Orange Cachaça</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">¾ oz. Carpano Antica Formula</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">¼ oz. Aperol</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1 dash Angostura bitters</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Stir with ice & strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a slice of fresh Blood Orange. </em></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">But now that you've labored (not for all that long really) at preparing the above infusion, why not stick around the kitchen a bit longer - perhaps for a lovely spot of dinner that will make handy use of some of the extra (Lemongrass, Blood Oranges &c.) ingredients from your infusion...?</span><br /><br /><strong>Roast Quail stuffed w/ Savory Veal Couscous</strong><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sc5D2z3v50I/AAAAAAAAA2A/qx8IgFtcBp8/s1600-h/Quail+%26+Potatoes+a+la+Duchess1.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 289px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 247px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5318262818887165762" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sc5D2z3v50I/AAAAAAAAA2A/qx8IgFtcBp8/s200/Quail+%26+Potatoes+a+la+Duchess1.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />6x Quail, <em>cleaned & marinated</em><br /><strong>Savory Veal-Couscous Stuffing</strong> (see below)<br /><strong>Grande Duchess Potatoes</strong> (see below), <em>to plate</em><br />Manchego Cheese, <em>shaved thin for garnish</em><br /></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><em>Marinade</em></strong>:<br />1 Cup Lillet Blanc<br />2 Tblspns. Honey<br />Zest of ½ Blood Orange<br />2 Tsp. fresh Tarragon, <em>chiffonade</em><br />1 Tsp. <em>Herbes de Provence</em> blend<br />¾ Tsp. Coriander, <em>coarsely-crushed</em><br />½ Tsp. white Pepper<br /><br /><strong><em>Savory Veal-Couscous Stuffing:</em></strong><br />½ lb. Veal, <em>ground</em><br />1 Cup medium Couscous<br />½ Cup fresh Blood Orange juice<br />½ Cup Veal stock (<strong>or</strong> sub. ½ Beef & ½ Chicken stocks)<br />6 Tblspns. Butter, <em>unsalted</em><br />1 Tblspn. Honey<br />2x cloves Garlic, <em>minced</em><br />2 Tblspns. green Onions, <em>chiffonade</em><br />2 Tblspns. Lemongrass, <em>chiffonade</em><br />1½ Tsp. fresh Tarragon, <em>chiffonade</em><br /><em>Fluer de Sel</em> & black Pepper, <em>to taste</em><br />‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡<br />1. <em>Prepare the marinade by combining listed ingredients in a plastic bag, agitating to mix, and adding cleaned Quail. Marinate the birds for approximately two hours in the refrigerator.</em><br />2. <em>Prepare the Couscous stuffing as follows:</em><br />3. <em>In a medium saucepan over low-medium heat, melt Butter and saute Garlic, Lemongrass & Onions until fragrant (about 2 minutes).</em><br />4. <em>Brown the ground Veal in the same pan.</em><br />5. <em>Add remaining ingredients, stir well & bring to a simmer over low-medium heat.</em><br />6. <em>Place the Couscous in a bowl & when liquid mixture is simmering, add to the container. Stir well & cover with plastic wrap to steam for approximately ten minutes.</em><br />6.<em> Preheat oven to 375°. Remove Quail from marinade & drain before generously stuffing with Couscous mixture. Reserve ½ Cup of marinade.</em><br />7.<em> Arrange stuffed Quail in a 9x13 dish or braising pan & deposit reserved marinade in bottom.</em><br />8. <em>Place prepared Quail in preheated oven & cook for 25-30 minutes, or until well-bronzed. Remove, allow to rest for about 2 minutes & plate with:</em></span> <span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Grande Duchess Potatoes </strong><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">2½ lbs. Potatoes, <em>peeled</em><br />2x cloves Garlic, <em>minced</em><br />¾ Cup: Heavy Cream<br />8 Tblspns. Butter, <em>unsalted & divided</em><br />½ Cup: Manchego cheese, <em>shredded & packed</em><br />3x Egg yolks<em>, divided & beaten</em> </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Generous pinch of Nutmeg, <em>freshly-grated</em><br /><em>Fluer de Sel</em> & black Pepper, <em>to taste</em><br />‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡ ‡<br />1.<em> Clean & boil Potatoes in salted water as per ordinary mashed potatoes.</em><br />2. <em>In a small saucepan over low-medium heat, melt the Butter & allow to brown slightly (</em>not<em> </em>quite<em> beurre noisette) before adding Garlic.</em><br />3. <em>Saute Garlic over low heat until fragrant (about 1-2 minutes) then slowly stir in Heavy Cream & Cheese.</em><br />4. <em>Bring to a gentle simmer, stirring often & remove from heat.</em><br />5. <em>Drain Potatoes & allow to stand, uncovered, for about 5 minutes (so that some amount of moisture may evaporate).</em><br />6. <em>In a small bowl, temper two of the beaten Egg yolks by </em>slowly<em> adding the Butter-Cream mixture & whisking aggresively</em>.<br />7. <em>Whip Potatoes smooth by preferred method, slowly adding Butter-Cream mixture & seasoning with Nutmeg, Fluer de Sel & black Pepper.</em><br />8. <em>On a silicon-lined baking sheet divide mashed potatoes into six equal portions; the ambitious may wish to pipe the warm potatoes into a whimsical arrangement.</em><br />9. <em>Gently brush the formed potatoes with the remaining beaten Egg yolk & place in the oven at 375° for approximately ten minutes (</em>this may be placed in the oven with the Quail if you wish<em>), or until crisp on top. The ambitious may then further crisp the top with a culinary torch, but this step is not really necessary. </em></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span> </div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">Serve with the prepared Quail (taking care to not forget adding the shaved Manchego on top) on a warmed plate & enjoy!<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Cheers & Enjoy!</span></div>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-46304542141410567442009-03-15T22:00:00.004-04:002009-03-16T17:15:07.892-04:00A Bit of Bitter, From...Jersey?<span style="font-size:85%;">Well, not exactly - bear with me a moment. Though the drinks listed in this article were originated some time ago during a sponsored <a href="http://www.kaiserpenguin.com/come-to-thursday-drink-night/">Thursday Drink Night</a> at the <a href="http://blog.mixoloseum.com/">Mixoloseum</a>, the ingredient in question doesn't really have anything to do with New Jersey, but more (or less) on that in a few breaths...<br /></span><br /><p><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sb68wcWnMWI/AAAAAAAAA1g/X4M7c_Z0_Z4/s1600-h/TDN.bmp"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 187px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 104px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313892150774542690" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sb68wcWnMWI/AAAAAAAAA1g/X4M7c_Z0_Z4/s200/TDN.bmp" /></a>Said <a href="http://www.kaiserpenguin.com/come-to-thursday-drink-night/">TDN</a> was graciously sponsored by a cocktailian favorite; an ingredient which can be a bit intimidating to those unfamiliar (hell, even to those initiated) with its particular charms: the mavelously-complex <em>amaro</em> called <a href="http://www.fernetbranca.com/">Fernet Branca</a>. At once medicinal, sharply herbal, tangy and bittersweet, Fernet can be a difficult ingredient to work with - only a handful of cocktails utilize it in any sizeable quantity and it is most often taken straight, typically applied (quite successfully) as a <em>digestivo</em>. <br /><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size:85%;">Yet the complexity and breadth of flavors present in this Italian spirit can be quite appealing, in a bewitching sort of way, despite its propensity to bull through more delicate flavors. As with similarly-rambunctious ingredients, the challenge to working with Fernet successfully lies in finding equally strong flavors, or combinations of flavors which play along with, hightlight, or merely ones which refuse to be pushed aside, to combine it with. Ginger, for example, has long been an accompaniment to Fernet, such as in the San Francisco tradition of chasing a shot of the spirit with strong Ginger Ale. Therefore, in my (winning!) TDN entry I thought to give such a well-proven combination - with a few small twists - a shot.<br /><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">Give this libation (or any of the <a href="http://blog.mixoloseum.com/original-fernet-branca-cocktails/">equally-excellent concoctions</a> my colleagues produced that evening) a try & experience Fernet Branca's intriguing flavor profile for yourself. And if a full half-ounce of Fernet has you a little suspicious, feel free to read on for a more subtle (& Jersey-related; or not) application of the spirit - and hopefully you'll come around eventually (<strong>©</strong>):<br /><br /></span><strong><span style="font-size:85%;">Bully Boy</span></strong><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1 oz. Bourbon (Bulleit)</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Fernet Branca</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Domaine de Canton Ginger liqueur</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. fresh Lemon juice</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">2 Tsp. Raw Simple syrup</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Combine ingredients in a mixing glass and shake well. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass & garnish with a twist of fresh Lemon. </em><br /><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">One of the most noted (and frankly, the simplest) applications of Fernet is its use as a substitution for an aromatic (or other non-potable) bitters such as Angostura, rather than as a primary ingredient - as above - of a cocktail. For example, when used thusly a few liberal dashes of Fernet in a Bourbon Manhattan makes for a lovely drink called a <a href="http://www.cocktaildb.com/recipe_detail?id=766">Franciulli Cocktail</a>. With such a role well-established, I reasoned to try out Fernet in a simple, yet classic, libation of which I am inordinately fond - the Jersey Cocktail. Told you I'd get there, if eventually...<br /><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sb68wBOS4OI/AAAAAAAAA1Y/dvfPyZ-FvvU/s1600-h/(New)+Jersey+Cocktail+039.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 169px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 115px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313892143491899618" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sb68wBOS4OI/AAAAAAAAA1Y/dvfPyZ-FvvU/s200/(New)+Jersey+Cocktail+039.jpg" /></a>In it's original form, this little-known beverage hails from the earliest days of the cocktail - when producers and purveyors of alcohol (& just about everything else) conducted their business unhindered by such trifles as <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pure_Food_and_Drug_Act">safe food & drug laws</a>, or even ingredient or labeling legislation. Champagne was, naturally, imported from France and the demand for it was quite prolific throughout the United States. The American thirst for the stuff was so strong, that quantities of the sparkling wine <em>imbibed</em> outstripped the quantities which were <em>imported</em> to these shores by a <strong>great</strong> deal...<br /><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">So what ingenious forgeries were foisted upon the tippling populace when a Champagne Cocktail was called for? To quote David Wondrich's <em><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0399532870?ie=UTF8&tag=anexerinhospa-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0399532870">Imbibe!</a></em>, the unlucky were served, "<em>processed beet juice</em>" and the 'lucky' would generally receive, "<em>Garden State hard cider, pressurized with CO₂ (preferably without too much residual carbonic acid) </em>[<em>...</em>]<em> in a Frenchy-looking bottle.</em>" As such counterfeiting was not necessarily advertised to the clientele, this libation seldom appears in any source other than bartender's guides. Yet it is in the first of these - Jerry Thomas' 1862 <em><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1603111662?ie=UTF8&tag=anexerinhospa-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1603111662">How to Mix Drinks</a></em> - that the drink is addressed with a measure of honesty towards its components. To further quote Mr. Wondrich, "<em>let that be its recommendation</em>" and it is indeed, a very good one.<br /><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">Ironically, the hard Cider I tend to use most in this application <em>actually</em> hails from France (Normandy) and possesses a very Champagne-like dryness which is quite agreeable here - but if your only option is a sweeter style, merely reduce the sugar by a touch. When prepared (almost exactly as a Champagne Cocktail) with Angostura bitters, it is quite nice; with homemade Boker's, even better; but with Fernet in place of these, it shines brighter than a counterfeiter's smile:<br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sb68vXkZlfI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/PregJDVttDk/s1600-h/(New)+Jersey+Cocktail+032.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 202px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 161px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313892132310324722" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sb68vXkZlfI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/PregJDVttDk/s200/(New)+Jersey+Cocktail+032.jpg" /></a>(New) Jersey Cocktail</strong><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">1x Sugar cube (<strong>or</strong> 1 generous Tsp. of Sugar)<br />3-4 dashes: Fernet Branca<br /><em>Brut</em> hard Apple Cider<br /><em>Douse the sugar cube with the Fernet Branca. Fill a champagne flute with well-chilled hard Cider & gently drop the sugar cube into the glass. Gently stir, garnish with a twist of fresh Orange & enjoy.</em></span></p><br /><p align="left"></p><p align="left"><span style="font-size:85%;">Cheers & Enjoy!</span></p><p align="left"><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>**In the interest of full disclosure, samples of Fernet Branca were provided for this event. They were, in fact, provided so far in advance of said event, that I blew through my sample & had to purchase a new bottle in order to participate...</em></span></p>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-58621582464498911822009-03-03T20:00:00.003-05:002009-03-03T22:31:05.502-05:00Seasonal Produce & A Last Stab at Winter<span style="font-size:85%;">Yesterday's foul weather, hopefully the last incidence of heavy snow this season, coupled with a weekend trip to one of my favorite farmer's markets, reminded me of a drink I haven't enjoyed in quite a while. This is not entirely unusual - many of my drinks go with what's good at the time - I'll often pick up ingredients & whip up new or variant drinks <em>a la minute</em>. </span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Unfortunately many of these fall victim to my less-than-stellar memory, suffer from the vagaries of seasonal ingredients (often considered a lightly-stocked 'specialty' or 'novelty' product by the local grocers), or are merely set aside for later use in the wake of something new (or something old which happens to be new to me). In any case, while out stocking up on provisions, I happened upon a selection of ripe Blood Oranges - my second-favorite (only nominally behind Tangerines) winter produce, and happily snapped up a bunch of them.</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sa3qJyHW7yI/AAAAAAAAA0w/CQKwG_RkBKA/s1600-h/BloodOrange1.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 158px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 137px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309156989532040994" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sa3qJyHW7yI/AAAAAAAAA0w/CQKwG_RkBKA/s200/BloodOrange1.jpg" /></a>A natural mutation of sweet and bitter Oranges cultivated for many years throughout the Mediterranean, Blood Oranges are a delightful dichotomy of flavors. They are somewhat sweet at first, particularly at the height of their season, with a discernibly tart, almost berry-like, finish. Depending on variety, season and regional climate/light conditions where they are grown, Blood Oranges vary greatly in appearance both inside and out. Some varieties/crops are more blood-colored inside, while the flesh of others are more similar to pink/reddish-tinted oranges in appearance. Likewise, while the skin of many varieties/crops are mottled in texture and often feature darker patches of color, others are smooth & bright in outward appearance.<br /></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">No matter their look, Blood Oranges generally make a <strong>fantastic</strong> addition to cocktails, as many of my fellow cocktailians will attest. Substituting them into any number of libations what call for fresh Oranges makes for a wonderful depth of flavor and an attractive, darker coloration. Depending on where they hail from, Blood Oranges have a fair breadth of season too. While they are cultivated heavily in the Mediterranean, the best (in flavor and coloration) U.S. varieties tend to, in my humble opinion, hail from Texas and California. The ones I purchased were brought in, late season, from Texas; soon I suspect, the California varieties will (if they show up at all) soon be on the shelves.<br /></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">So, with Blood Oranges in hand, I pondered a drink to use some of them in - as they are quite a treat for me I utilize them as often as possible in cocktails when given even half a chance to do so. After a thusly-enhanced <a href="http://cocktaildb.com/recipe_detail?id=2810">Bronx Cocktail</a>, I finally settled on the following lovely little take on the California or Stone Sour, which plays up the fruity tartness of the Oranges & adds a few sharp, bittersweet notes through the use of the delightfully-bitter Italian liquor Aperol. Go on out and snag some Blood Oranges if you can, give them a whirl in anything that tickles your fancy; or give the wintery weather a good-riddance and take a stab at this little beauty (©): </span><br /><br /><p><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sa3mpUbYv8I/AAAAAAAAA0o/Iy4-t3UIEdk/s1600-h/Cocktails+2008-05-02+030(Jack+Knife).jpg"><strong><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 145px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 205px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309153133272285122" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/Sa3mpUbYv8I/AAAAAAAAA0o/Iy4-t3UIEdk/s200/Cocktails+2008-05-02+030(Jack+Knife).jpg" /></strong></a><strong>Jacknife Sour </strong><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">1½ oz. Laird's Applejack<br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Aperol<br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">1 oz. fresh Blood Orange juice<br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">¼ oz. fresh Lemon juice<br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">1 oz. Simple syrup<br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">1x fresh Egg white<br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">1 dash: <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/06/bitters-makes-it-better-part-ii.html">Honey Tangerine bitters</a> (substitute Regan's or The Bitter Truth Orange bitters)<br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Combine ingredients in a mixing glass & dry-shake. Add ice and shake well; strain into a chilled cocktail or sour glass and granish with a flamed twist of Blood Orange.</em></span></p><p><em><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></em></p><p><span style="font-size:85%;"></span> </p><p><span style="font-size:85%;">Check back soon for another (likewise neglected for reasons unknown) use for this delightful winter citrus - a fantastic Blood Orange-infused Cachaça... <br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size:85%;">Cheers & Enjoy!</span></p>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-81199855579605433372009-02-23T22:00:00.001-05:002009-02-24T17:47:15.852-05:00(Bols +) Bitters Makes it Better, part III<span style="font-size:85%;">...they really do (and frankly, always have) from the birth of the spirited drink called "cocktail" onward into the present day. This was the essential theme </span><span style="font-size:85%;">of a recent seminar; one of four being organized by the fantastic folks of <a href="http://www.lucasbolsspiritsusa.com/">Lucas Bols</a> Genever in conjunction with Stephan Berg of <a href="http://www.the-bitter-truth.com/">The Bitter Truth</a>. In its' pre-opening hours, Julie Reiner's beautiful <a href="http://www.cloverclubny.com/">Clover Club</a> played host to several dozen of the NY/Metro area's finest spirits and cocktail professionals (so why they let <em>me</em> in I will never guess).</span> <div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SaGD6agBFXI/AAAAAAAAAzo/MJNvMglrU7o/s1600-h/Bols+%26+Bitter+Truth+Seminar+016.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 192px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 141px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305666875588416882" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SaGD6agBFXI/AAAAAAAAAzo/MJNvMglrU7o/s200/Bols+%26+Bitter+Truth+Seminar+016.jpg" /></a>To give you some rough idea, cocktail authorities like <a href="http://www.kingcocktail.com/">Dale DeGroff</a> & <a href="http://jamesbeardfoundation.wordpress.com/2008/06/09/dr-vino-david-wondrich/">David Wondrich</a>, <a href="http://www.cocktailkingdom.com/">Mud Puddle Book</a>'s Greg Boehm (with charming assistant Christina in-tow), <a href="http://www.usbg.org/">USBG</a>-NY President <a href="http://thecocktailguru.wordpress.com/">Jonathan Pogash</a> and quality bartenders like Giuseppe Gonzalez, Jim Meehan, Joaquin Simo, Thomas Waugh, Alex Day & Don Lee rubbed shoulders and pressed palms with all manner of industry folks; including bloggers like fellow <a href="http://blog.mixoloseum.com/">CSOWG</a> member <a href="http://underhill-lounge.flannestad.com/">Erik Ellestad</a>, <a href="http://web.mac.com/zabpaul/Cocktail_Buzz/Home.html">Paul Zablocki</a>, <a href="http://eatmealife.blogspot.com/2009/02/drink-like-me-genever-convention.html">Chantal Martineau</a> and little old me. They even invited <a href="http://www3.timeoutny.com/newyork/the-feed-blog/restaurants-bars/2009/02/bitters-make-it-better/">the media</a>!</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SaQnKRcRiXI/AAAAAAAAAz4/7aS4m0YA3oQ/s1600-h/BrandyCocktail1.png"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 230px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 125px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306409318383454578" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SaQnKRcRiXI/AAAAAAAAAz4/7aS4m0YA3oQ/s200/BrandyCocktail1.png" /></a>Upon arrival, the attendees were met with a lovely spread of nibbles paired with a classic Brandy Cocktail, expertly-prepared by Brian Miller (whose presence rounded out the appearance of nearly <em>all</em> of <a href="http://www.deathandcompany.com/">Death & Co.</a>'s barstaff) and the Clover Club staff. Throughout the event, both were hard at work; operating at an efficient, if understandably-frantic, pace from the establishment's rear bar. Bols representatives Debbie Rizzo and Tal Nadari were great sports, working the room with ease, welcoming each attendee (even me) with enthusiastic smiles and performing (in my case, much-appreciated) introductions all-around. After a bit of mingling and conversation, the presentation began, with Mr. Nadari taking the stage to introduce the topic: the influence of bitters in classic cocktails, and the eminently-qualified speaker, Stephan Berg...</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SaGD6FJFfGI/AAAAAAAAAzY/DnhUYQGUCOE/s1600-h/Bols+%26+Bitter+Truth+Seminar+004.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 195px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 144px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305666869855091810" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SaGD6FJFfGI/AAAAAAAAAzY/DnhUYQGUCOE/s200/Bols+%26+Bitter+Truth+Seminar+004.jpg" /></a>The topic covered a great deal of fascinating history, beginning with a brief explanation of just what bitters are before delving into their early development and almost-universal use as cure-all's, medicines & tonics in the days where medical care was less than reliable. It turns out, thousands of regional types of bitters - often produced, as Mr. Berg stated, by 'local grannies' - abounded, with the better examples becoming gradually-popularized by apothecary shops. Amusingly, many of these establishments often purchased bitters unlabeled & then applied their own descriptors to. </span><span style="font-size:85%;">Such commercialized efforts, in conjunction with the 19th century spread of saloons, gave rise to proprietary brands. Names like Siegert's (what would become, following protracted litigation, Angostura), Hostetter's & Drake's Plantation bitters (among dozens, if not hundreds, of others) started becoming quite popular as a result. </span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SaGD6Zm86TI/AAAAAAAAAzg/VRawTnl25Hg/s1600-h/Bols+%26+Bitter+Truth+Seminar+013.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 146px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 195px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305666875349068082" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SaGD6Zm86TI/AAAAAAAAAzg/VRawTnl25Hg/s200/Bols+%26+Bitter+Truth+Seminar+013.jpg" /></a>As the presentation continued, it covered the growth (and eventual decline) of the saloon, and with it the advent of the cocktail - which relied on various kinds of bitters to give the spirited beverage distinction from other drinks of the period. Emphasis was placed on the work of Jerry Thomas, and the "Golden Age" of the cocktail which it ushered in. Throughout, David Wondrich graciously supplied additional tidbits of information to supliment Mr. Berg's lecture or confirm a point made by the same.</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span> </div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">To...punctuate the discussion, every few slides or so, a fresh cocktail of classical origin would be skillfully-prepared & distributed to the audience. In total nine (!) libations were paradaded forth - a feat which made for <em>quite</em> a merry (if somewhat cluttered) bar. A few of the notables among these included selections culled from J. Thomas, Harry Johnson, William Boothby & William Schmidt, like these little beauties (from the last & first authors, respectivly):</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span> </div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span> </div><br /><div align="left"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 314px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 209px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306461179534831122" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SaRWU_SS7hI/AAAAAAAAA0I/Hjg22hMbyvA/s200/Holland%27sPride1.png" /></div><p align="justify"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 333px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 168px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306461177457055810" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SaRWU3i6mEI/AAAAAAAAA0A/Srjzg7BIaQY/s200/GinCocktail.png" /></p><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">While Gin was not the base for <em>every</em> cocktail served, several points arose in the presentation about many of the classic recipes one finds in the old guides & books. In many cases when "Gin" is specified, it is actually "Holland Gin" or the Genever style which is meant, rather than the more modernly-prefered Dry/London Dry styles. In fact, circa 1850 (right around the time of many of these recipes' creation), quantities of imported Genever gins outnumbered those of Dry styles almost 300 to 1! </span><span style="font-size:85%;">When sampling cocktails from such texts utilizing the later style, results (as they were for me in several cases) are disappointing, or at least a question of "what's so great about this"? However, when a Genever style is used in cocktail recipes of the era, you can really get a feel for the incredible genius many of the great bartenders of old clearly posessed.</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">On a similarly-spirited note, observe the presence of Curacao in so many of the earliest cocktails - always in very small quantities & paired with an aromatic bitters like Boker's. Yet this practice fades somewhat around the same time Orange bitters (such as the 1883 brand L. Jung & Wulff) began appearing in cocktail recipes. The reasoning for this is simple - prior to approximately 1880, there was <em>no such thing</em> as an Orange bitters to provide the citrus complexity which the combination of Curacao and aromatic bitters created!</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Other points of considerable interest included the effects of the <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=ngQRAAAAYAAJ&printsec=titlepage&source=gbs_summary_r&cad=0">Pure Food & Drug Act of 1906</a> and Prohibition on bitters (& the cocktails they were constituents of). To make a short story of it, both events were catastrophic for many of the varieties which so many recipes of the time utilized. Brands like Abbott's, Boker's (so often misspelled as "Bogart's") & Stoughton's were either driven out of business immediately by the 1906 Act or crippled by weak positioning, marketing or demand following Repeal.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">In closing, Mr. Berg spoke briefly about the Bitter Truth line as well as some of the characteristics and components of bitters in general. He was quite gracious in answering questions, stating that the only information he would <em>not</em> disclose would be the recipes for any of <em>his</em> bitters. Fair enough. He did however, bring a number of tincture bottles (in addition to the full line of Bitter Truth products) filled with samples of various rare extracts & an actual<strong> sample of the long-defunct Boker's bitters</strong>! They were, quite frankly, delicious. </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Similarly, when questions about TBT's (limited release) of Jerry Thomas' Decanter bitters arose, a sample of Virginia Snakeroot (which would have been included in the original c. 1862 product) extract - generously supplied by David Wondrich - was passed around for (cautious) inspection! This was accompanied by a sample of the different (non-toxic) strain of Snakeroot which TBT apparently substitutes into their own version of The Professor's housemade bitters...</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">All in all the event was a positively-fantastic experience, full of interesting facts and interesting discussions - all over classic (& delicious) drinks! </span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Cheers & Thanks...</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">...to Stephan Berg for the terrific show, Debbie Rizzo & Tal Nadari, as well as the <a href="http://blog.mixoloseum.com/">CSOWG</a> for enabling me to attend. Likewise, many thanks to Erik and Paul for introducing me to so many new faces as well as to Brian Miller & the whole Clover Club gang for their spectacular work with all those drinks!</span><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Other Folks' Reports</strong>:</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><ul><li><a href="http://cocktailbuzz.blogspot.com/2009/02/bitters-is-better-bitter-truth-mingles.html"><span style="font-size:85%;">CocktailBuzz.com</span></a></li><li><a href="http://thecocktailguru.wordpress.com/2009/02/21/the-bitter-truth-of-it-all/"><span style="font-size:85%;">The Cocktail Guru</span></a></li><li><a href="http://eatmealife.blogspot.com/2009/02/drink-like-me-genever-convention.html"><span style="font-size:85%;">Eat Me a Life</span></a></li><li><a href="http://www3.timeoutny.com/newyork/the-feed-blog/restaurants-bars/2009/02/bitters-make-it-better/"><span style="font-size:85%;">Time Out New York</span></a></li></ul>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-75512871112103656542009-02-14T19:15:00.006-05:002009-02-21T14:57:16.145-05:00Cocktailian Kisses...<span style="font-size:85%;">As I'm certain many of you, like myself, have some manner of Valentine's Day plans, I'll keep this one short and sweet. While I'm not a proponent of holiday-themed cocktails, I happen to think that the following libation is quite appropriate for this particular 'holiday', to say nothing for how delicious the classic, if little-known, drink is.</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">The deceptively-simple beverage in question hails from the pages of Tiki legend Victor "Trader" Bergeron's 1946 <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0385066287?ie=UTF8&tag=anexerinhospa-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0385066287">Book of Food & Drink</a>. As 'Vic notes, his Hawaiian-named short hoist is a, "<em>cute name </em>[means "kisses" in the aforementioned language] <em>and a dandy drink. Forget it's a cocktail. In fact, double it, put it in a larger glass </em>[...]<em> and you've got a pretty good around-the-clock-drink.</em>" </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Indeed; though I'll interject an additional note on this one - as it relies on a harmonious combination of a small number of ingredients (passing strange for a Tiki drink, I know), it's <em>very</em> important for said components to be of as high a quality as possible - particularly the spirits. Be cautious with the citrus too; in my area at least, this time of year often brings an annoyingly variable (<em>read</em>: fickle) quality/ripeness to Lemons & Limes.</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">That said, if you're making this little tipple for your significant other this Valentine's (or on any odd day), there's no need to tell them this kiss came from me - I'll let you take all the credit...</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Honi Honi</strong></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1 oz. white Rum (Old New Orleans)</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Apricot Brandy (Marie Brizard Apry)</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. fresh Lemon juice</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Combine ingredient in a mixing glass with plenty of ice & shake well. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. </em>Doubling the recipe as per Vic's suggestion is a good plan and will likely ensure a <em>real</em> kiss or two...</span><br /><em><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></em><br /><em><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></em><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Cheers & Happy Valentine's Day!</span>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-27618254024180913832009-02-11T12:23:00.011-05:002009-02-11T21:07:33.682-05:00Why We're Here - Marketing 101<span style="font-size:85%;">I write this blog for a variety of reasons... </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">When I embarked upon this blogging endeavor nearly a year ago, I reasoned this to be the best way to share my interests with the largest collection of like-minded individuals. I love cocktails, cooking, hospitality; and can wax poetic (as even a casual reader here can attest) about the virtues which so frequently manifest within these fields. More directly, I love <em>sharing</em> the things that I find to be tasty, interesting or useful so that others might enjoy similar experiences to my own. </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">As I learn something new, so too do you good reader; when I write about something I've enjoyed I'm happy, ecstatic even, if just <em>one</em> visitor here gives it a try or learns something new. Gaz Regan would label this as one aspect of the "Path of the Bartender", a tiny element in a system of sharing knowledge between any & all who might have an interest for the express benefit & advancement of the culinary craft as a whole...</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Imagine my excitement when companies who publicize & market the products with which I often work (and write about) began to take notice, and sought to enable me to better provide you, good reader, with something cool or interesting to read, ponder, or try out. Many of these organizations have been extremely generous in working with little old me (& a number of my esteemed colleagues) in my humble efforts to advance the craft of the cocktail in my own way. More importantly, they have always been courteous and intelligent in their efforts - approaching me through respectable channels, providing samples, tangible & informative information. </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">They have allowed me to <em>experience</em> their product, and through <em>my</em> experience, enabled <em>you</em> to make a (nominally) better-informed decision about expanding yours. In good marketing there exists an understanding of a little concept called Brand Equity - which we'll cover in a moment - but first let me tell you what the aforementioned groups <em><strong>don't</strong></em> do when they interact with yours truly...</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">The quality organizations of which I'm speaking have <em>never</em> attempted to sell me a cute story, asked me to reprint a (lousy) sales-pitch which masquerades as a press release, disseminate biased or incorrect facts, communicated with all the professionalism (& spelling or grammar) of a 419 scam, or <strong>repeatedly spam my little exercise in sharing with any of the above</strong>. Furthermore, and very importantly, they have never made assumptions about <em>you</em> my good reader, as at least ten e-mails a week (& a plethora of already-filtered comments) from other companies so frequently do... </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">If the contents of my 'deleted mail' box are to be believed, then you 'o reader, surely deserve & desire nothing more than a big glass of root-beer or bubble-gum flavored vodka, perhaps with a dash of chemical sour mix or a spritz of Red Bull...? Perhaps you're looking into discovering absinthe, and you're really interested in getting the most chemically-psychoactive product allowable by law! "It's got more Thujone in it than those other guys! How does it taste? Don't worry about that - it'll get you messed-up the fastest!"</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">If I were you good reader, I'd be mighty offended - these folks clearly think of you (& me) as an impressionable child. Despite the massive amounts of capital their distillery-based patrons doubtlessly spend on them, do they do their homework? Do they take five seconds to run a search (it's in the top left-hand corner people) on a site like this (or </span><a href="http://cocktailnerd.com/?p=1678"><span style="font-size:85%;">many</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> others) to see if words like "vodka", "sour mix", "hallucinate", or "garbage drinks invented by marketers" pop up? If they did, they would evince a modicum of interest in you or I, their <em>potential</em> consumer, and in building a meaningful relationship with us. They would also find that none of the above terms come up (except the vodka thing - I use that as a preservative with passing regularity) in discussion here. They do nothing to advance the culinary aspects of cocktails, in fact, the tone of their sales pitches undermines so much of the work the mixological community has done to advance the cocktailian arts.</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">As companies which <strong><em>do</em></strong> engage in such tactic doubtlessly employ folk who have assuredly never attended a basic <a href="http://www.artofdrink.com/2009/02/pr-etiquette.php">Marketing</a> class (sometimes not even a basic <a href="http://www.drinkplanner.com/2009/02/11/le-tournament-vert-hired-some-morons/">English</a> class, it seems), allow me to briefly explain the concept of Brand Equity to them. Quite simply, this is the value inherent to a brand name (& the product behind it) in & of itself - the tangible goodwill espoused by your customers towards your product. It is engendered by selling the value of the brand in question through a good sales relationship - which requires nothing more than a professional investment of time. Key words there: "goodwill" & "professional"; the first is not engendered by the tactics decried here and the second is clearly not evinced in the same...</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">For those companies who understand this concept & engage in it, I salute your work. For those of you who plainly don't grasp it - your emails & comments will continue to be deleted, your ever-shifting IP addresses will be blocked and the products which you are paid so handsomely to represent will never get a word of coverage here. By-the-by, "Grey of Grey Goose Vodka", coming to my site to comment-spam me <em><strong>directly</strong></em> from an open Google Doc's page listing all the folks you plan on bothering after me, alongside snarky comments about the potential gains from such an activity? Not so bright...</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Well-played folks... </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">As for me, I will settle back into my previously-mentioned (& greatly-enjoyed) role of sharing my highlights in matters cocktail & culinary as soon as this venom recedes from whence it came. A nice dinner should do the trick, so tune back in later this evening for more about that...</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Cheers!</span>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-58568245722941075322009-01-25T23:14:00.011-05:002009-01-31T17:14:35.712-05:00Greensleeves...<span style="font-size:85%;">...was all my joy, Greensleeves was my delight...</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Sorry; that's about as old a <a href="http://www.uiweb.uidaho.edu/student_orgs/arthurian_legend/game/music/GreensleevesLyrics.htm">song</a> as they come, dating as it does to the close of the 1500's. Yet despite its' age, the ballad is quite a good one - still sung in a few of the <a href="http://sca.org/">right places</a> - unchanged from its' original lyrics & rhythm. This practice is in many ways similar to that of one of the oldest spirits - <a href="http://www.chartreuse.fr/">Green Chartreuse</a> - still produced today more or less as it was in the eighteenth century when a (c. 1605) receipt for an "elixir of long life" was translated by the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carthusian">Carthusian</a> monks of <a href="http://cartusian.tripod.com/id156.html">Le Grand Chartreuse</a> monastary.</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Much as with the aforementioned song, Chartreuse can be quite a rarity in the liquor cabinets of all but the most-seasoned cocktailians. Indeed, to the uninitiated Chartreuse can appear to be a little intimidating - a brilliant green in color, with an incredibly-complex flavor deriving from over 130 herbs, spices & flowers; to say nothing for its steep 55% ABV (and similarly-sized price tag). Don't let any of that scare you, though - the spirit is delicious - both on its own, and more importantly, in the <strong>many</strong> classic cocktails what call for it. In libations such as the </span><a href="http://www.smallscreennetwork.com/video/5/the_last_word/"><span style="font-size:85%;">Last Word</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> or </span><a href="http://cocktailnerd.com/?p=47"><span style="font-size:85%;">Bijou Cocktail</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">, the use of Chartreuse typically makes for a beverage that well-exceeds the sum of its' parts. For those of you looking to delve further into classic cocktails of this sort, good starting points for researching recipes utilizing Chartreuse include Harry Craddock's <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1862057729?ie=UTF8&tag=anexerinhospa-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1862057729"><em>Savoy Cocktail Book</em></a> and A.S. Crockett's <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0974325902?ie=UTF8&tag=anexerinhospa-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0974325902"><em>Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book</em></a>.</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">But, venerable classics aside, when my compatriots over at the <a href="http://blog.mixoloseum.com/">Mixoloseum</a> announced that a recent <a href="http://www.kaiserpenguin.com/tdn-original-chartreuse-cocktails/">Thusday Drink Night</a> was to be sponsored by the folks who produce & market Chartreuse, I was shall we say, delighted at the opportunity to work with an ingredient so dear to my heart. Indeed, many of the drinks (and there were a <strong>great</strong> many) postulated & sampled that evening were deemed a great success, yet rather amazingly, one of my own concoctions came out of the evening as the winner! And so, I would like to share with you; my joy, my delight...</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Greensleeves</strong></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1½ oz. Plymouth Gin</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">¾ oz. Green Chartreuse</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">¼ oz. Carpano Antica Formula</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Orgeat syrup</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1 dash: Angostura bitters</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Combine ingredients in a mixing glass with plenty of ice & shake. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass, and enjoy both un-garnished & un-varnished.</em></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Once you've sampled Chartreuse in a cocktail like this, one of the others developed <em>a la minute</em> & highlighted in the <a href="http://www.kaiserpenguin.com/tdn-original-chartreuse-cocktails/">TDN wrap-up</a>, or in one of the many classic libations which are (thankfully) re-appearing on bar menus all over - I promise you too will never again be without this lovely spirit... </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Cheers!</span>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-50085660368959382282009-01-19T23:00:00.005-05:002009-01-20T11:45:28.957-05:00MxMo XXXV: Broaden Your Horizons...<span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SXERQpb6T-I/AAAAAAAAAx4/SBJGFMAE5ds/s1600-h/mxmologo.gif"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 175px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 83px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292030014835544034" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SXERQpb6T-I/AAAAAAAAAx4/SBJGFMAE5ds/s200/mxmologo.gif" /></a>...with a pinch of this, a dash of that - trying something new, whether it be a spirit one hasn't worked with before, a culinary technique applied towards some cocktailian end, or some other creative feat of mixological cleverness. That's the (frankly, <em>rather</em> clever) <a href="http://mixeddram.wordpress.com/2008/12/15/anouncing-mixology-monday-new-horizons/">theme</a> for this month's installment of <a href="http://mixologymonday.com/">Mixology Monday</a>, as chosen by the Scribe over at <a href="http://mixeddram.wordpress.com/">A Mixed Dram</a>. I can't help but think that this theme is certain to bring some <strong>serious</strong> entries - everything from molecular mixology items (or more fundamental, if still interesting, applications of technique) to rare & esoteric (even by my estimation) ingredients to odd cocktails from antiquity or otherwise. </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;">I started my own considerations about topics for this event with a desire to try something simple - unique & new to be sure - but nothing too crazy, I said to myself. I had settled on a cocktail addition with which I've scarcely ever played - rimming glasses - whether to provide a contrast of flavor, added sweetness, an aromatic component, or any number of other applications.<br /></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">But my copy of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1579651267?ie=UTF8&tag=anexerinhospa-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1579651267">The French Laundry Cookbook</a> just wouldn't stop staring at me from its place on the shelf, so that plan swiftly vanished in the resultant flurry of turning pages.</span> <span style="font-size:85%;">So much for simple; but then again our man <em>did</em> say culinary techniques & tricks were fair game...<br /></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">For those of you who may not possess or be familiar with this culinary gem, to say nothing of the genius behind it, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1579651267?ie=UTF8&tag=anexerinhospa-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1579651267">The French Laundry Cookbook</a> is the work of (3-star Michelin) Chef Thomas Keller - the fellow behind such landmark restaurants as <a href="http://www.perseny.com/">Per Se</a>, <a href="http://www.bouchonbistro.com/">Bouchon</a>, <a href="http://adhocrestaurant.com/">Ad Hoc</a> and, of course, the <a href="http://www.frenchlaundry.com/">French Laundry</a>. The book highlights Chef Keller's use of and passion for quality ingredients - treated well and lovingly-prepared. It includes a wealth of gorgeous photographs, delightful anecdotes and highly-detailed recipes - many adopted for use by the home cook. And while none of these are specifically geared towards the cocktailian side of culinary tradition, many of the ingredients, concepts, flavor combinations, tips & tricks found within can be applied towards such ends. One such application includes the section in which my roving eye lingered - which focuses on making & using: </span><br /><br /><strong>Powders</strong><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">"are a primarily visual device, to make a dish look more appealing. They're typically a by-product related to the dish - tomato powder for a tomato salad [...] But some of our powders have a more pronounced effect on the finished dish. [Some...] are used as both a spice and as a powder [...] the oils in the spices add an exciting aromatic element to the dish." -<em>Thomas Keller, The French Laundry Cookbook, p. 231</em><br /></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Upon reading that & summarily making several of the presented recipes with varying degrees of success, I was inspired to formulate a worthy cocktail rim. What follows is adapted from Chef Keller's published recipe & technique for Citrus Powder - a substance which, on its own, isn't too good for rimming cocktails with. But as a component of a more-complex mixture of sugar & spices, it makes a wonderfully-fragrant addition to any number of cocktails:</span><br /><br /><strong><span style="font-size:85%;">Lemon Powder</span></strong><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ Cup: Lemon peel<em>, pith removed & finely-julienned</em></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">¼ Cup: Meyer Lemon peel, <em>pith removed & finely-julienned</em></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Place Lemon peels in two separate saucepans and cover with cold water. Bring to a rapid boil over high heat and remove from heat, straining peels from the pans. Cover with water and repeat blanching two more times. Allow peels to cool to room temperature & pat dry with a towel before arranging separately on a parchment paper-lined, microwave-safe tray or plate. Microwave on lowest power setting for 7-10 minutes (depending on microwave) until peels are completely dry - check occasionally & if peels become dry early remove them. Allow to cool to room temperature before combining in a food processor or spice grinder. Process until peel is pulverized into fine powder (there will be a slight amount that will not fully process), then pour into a fine mesh strainer and stir with a spoon to sift into an airtight container. Makes a generous Tablespoon of powder; </em>utilize in the following recipe<em> </em>(<strong>©</strong>):</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SXV1nCA1brI/AAAAAAAAAyA/xjk11WPhFiY/s1600-h/Winter+Rim+Blend012.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 187px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 147px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293266250459606706" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SXV1nCA1brI/AAAAAAAAAyA/xjk11WPhFiY/s200/Winter+Rim+Blend012.jpg" /></a>Winter Rimming Blend</strong></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ Cup: white Sugar</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1¼ Tsp: Nutmeg, <em>freshly ground</em></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1 Tsp: Lemon Powder (as above)</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ Tsp: white Cardamom, <em>freshly ground</em></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Zest of one Tangerine, <em>patted dry</em></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Using a zester or microplane, zest the Tangerine onto some paper towels and allow to stand for a hour before patting dry to remove as much of the oils as possible. In a food processor or spice grinder, process the sugar until superfine. Add first the ground spices, processing until well-incorporated, before adding the Lemon powder & processing to mix. When Tangerine zest is no longer noticeably moist add to an airtight container, along with the sugar mixture. Stir well with a fork, being sure to incorporate the zest throughout & store for up to one week. </em>Use in a variety of cocktails - extreme success has thus far has been had in adding a pinch to the top of Mimosas & Sidecars, as well as a rim on the following:</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">I absolutely <em>love</em> a good <a href="http://www.cocktailchronicles.com/2005/09/11/in-praise-of-difficult-drinks-part-i-the-ramos-gin-fizz/">Ramos Gin Fizz</a> - a harmonious blend of Gin, Cream, Egg white and Citrus - developed and made famous at the turn of the century by Henry C. Ramos, first in 1888 at the Imperial Cabinet Saloon, then later at his Stag Saloon. Though the drink has experienced a resurgence in popularity in the past few years - and it is amazing to me that it ever became unknown - I have not yet encountered any examples of variations on the (admittedly, perfect as-is) concept. In keeping with my habit of messing with classic formulas, I replaced the Lime juice originally called for with a bit of Tangerine juice, reduced the sugar and, in a nod to another classic - the venerable Pink Lady - combined a bit of Apple Brandy with a blend of Gins. The hints of Tangerine, Orange-flower Water and Gin botanicals are well-accented by the use of the fragrant Winter Rimming blend, which also plays off the reduced sugar & increased Lemon juice in this small, yet delicious, homage to Mr. Ramos' creation (<strong>©</strong>):</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SXV1nWlVy-I/AAAAAAAAAyI/0LfDWZvJIU4/s1600-h/Winter+Stag+Fizz+051.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 199px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 178px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293266255981431778" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SXV1nWlVy-I/AAAAAAAAAyI/0LfDWZvJIU4/s200/Winter+Stag+Fizz+051.jpg" /></a>Winter Stag Fizz</strong></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Plymouth Gin</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Distillery 209 Gin</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Laird's 100° Bonded Apple Brandy</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">¾ oz. fresh Lemon juice</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">¼ oz. fresh Tangerine juice</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">2 oz. Heavy Cream</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">¾ Tablespoon: superfine Sugar</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">2 drops: Orange-flower Water</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1 fresh Egg white</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1 oz. Seltzer</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Winter Rimming Blend, for<em> rim </em>&<em> garnish </em>(see above)</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Prepare a highball glass by running a wedge of Tangerine along the rim, then dipping it in the Wintertime Rimming Blend at a 45° angle & tapping off any excess. Combine all ingredients except Seltzer in a mixing glass & dry-shake hard for thirty seconds. Add plenty of ice & shake very hard for approximately one minute; Add seltzer to prepared glass before straining shaken mixture in. Add a pinch of the Winter Rimming Blend to the foamy top as a further aromatic garnish. </em></span><br /><br /><em><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></em><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Cheers & Enjoy!</span>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-69786659653642740642009-01-05T23:00:00.006-05:002009-01-07T13:16:03.103-05:00What are you doing New Years, pt. II<span style="font-size:85%;">Now, in my <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/12/what-are-you-doing-new-years.html">previous post</a> you might recall I inquired as to the New Years festivities with which many of you were doubtlessly engaged. I also made reference to my own plans, which in my humble opinion, went over smashingly well. To sum up, I spent the past five days 'down the (New Jersey) shore, in the company of some <a href="http://bheithir.org/">dear friends</a>, mixing up cocktails and concoctions of all kinds for one & all... </span><br /><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWJ0DyzStcI/AAAAAAAAAts/v9UUdTZO-qQ/s1600-h/uglymug3.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 175px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 108px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5287916521011721666" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWJ0DyzStcI/AAAAAAAAAts/v9UUdTZO-qQ/s200/uglymug3.jpg" /></a>Sumptuous food was served by talented cooks, warm & wonderful conversation was had between friends both old & new; and the drinks were <em>more</em> than plentiful. Cocktails, Fizzes, Juleps, Sours, Daisies, Coolers, Toddies, Blue Blazers, Tiki drinks, a trio of Punches; even a Pousse-Cafe or two. But don't take my word for it; thanks to an almost papparazzi-like spat of photography by many talented friends, you may press on & see for yourself 'o gentle reader...</span></div><br /><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><span style="font-size:100%;">Fun with Fire </span></strong><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWJ0CG3KXjI/AAAAAAAAAtU/Bf-CpgIXUNY/s1600-h/BBlazer(Orchard)2.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 217px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 150px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5287916492036922930" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWJ0CG3KXjI/AAAAAAAAAtU/Bf-CpgIXUNY/s200/BBlazer(Orchard)2.jpg" /></a>"<em>The Blue Blazer does not have a very euphonious or classic name, but it tastes better to the palate than it sounds to the ear. A beholder gazing for the first time upon an experienced artist compounding this beverage, would naturally come to the conclusion that it was a nectar for Pluto rather than Bacchus...</em>" </span><span style="font-size:85%;">- Harry Craddock, <em>1930 Savoy Cocktail Book</em></span></div></div><br /><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWJ0D1n6F8I/AAAAAAAAAtk/tPSSqYWMaq0/s1600-h/BBlazer(Orchard)6.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 137px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 203px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5287916521769277378" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWJ0D1n6F8I/AAAAAAAAAtk/tPSSqYWMaq0/s200/BBlazer(Orchard)6.jpg" /></a>As I (and <a href="http://www.esquire.com/features/food-drink/blueblazer1107">others</a>) have said in the <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/12/comfortable-conflagration.html">past</a>, the Blue Blazer is quite the production - essentially a Scotch Toddy with the addition of an <em>impressive</em> spot of presentation. Yet at it's core that's all the libation really is; while it tastes just fine, the drink is about as good as the sum of it's parts, gaining distinction only from it's preparation & heavenly aroma. The use of flame in cooking (& elsewhere) can take known flavors in new directions - the caramelization of sugars can do some impressive things after all - such as in <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAQHh__6C6g">concoctions</a> at the Pegu Club's recent Blazer Mix-off. I aimed to incorporate a similar effect in the toasty apple & spicey caramel flavors of this riff on Jerry Thomas' immortal Blue Blazer (<strong>©</strong>):</span></div><br /><div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWKB_w_yF7I/AAAAAAAAAt0/pbCIirY9YNk/s1600-h/BBlazer(Orchard)5.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 223px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 159px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5287931844970551218" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWKB_w_yF7I/AAAAAAAAAt0/pbCIirY9YNk/s200/BBlazer(Orchard)5.jpg" /></a>Burning Down the Orchard</strong></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">5¼ oz. Laird's 100° Bonded Apple Brandy</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">¾ oz. Lemon Hart 151° Demerara Rum</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">2½ oz. Apple Cider, <em>warmed</em></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">2½ oz. boiling Water<br />――</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>In each of five pre-warmed mugs:</em> </span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1 oz. Apple Cider, <em>warmed</em></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWLov-Yny9I/AAAAAAAAAvs/i3cL0dfNExA/s1600-h/BBlazer(Orchard)4.jpg"></a>1 Tsp. Agave Nectar</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1 pinch: Cinnamon, <em>freshly-ground</em></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1 pinch: Nutmeg, <em>freshly-ground</em></span></div><div>――</div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Prepare with <strong>all due caution & care</strong> as a normal </em></span><a href="http://www.esquire.com/features/food-drink/blueblazer1107"><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Blue Blazer</em></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>, passing the flaming mixture approximately 8-9 times between the mugs.</em></span></div></div><br /><div><span style="font-size:85%;">On the theme of caramelization as a flavor modifier, I set about preparing a slight variation on Jamie Boudreau's (already-wonderful) </span><a href="http://spiritsandcocktails.wordpress.com/2007/06/07/rosewater-rickey/"><span style="font-size:85%;">Rosewater Rickey</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">... </span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWKIkdf3d8I/AAAAAAAAAuE/krlRy6QvGec/s1600-h/rosewaterrickya.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 206px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 139px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5287939072461338562" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWKIkdf3d8I/AAAAAAAAAuE/krlRy6QvGec/s200/rosewaterrickya.jpg" /></a>This beverage is compounded by bruleeing cherries with sugar in the mixing glass. In this instance using my own brandied Sour Cherries (in a Cherry-Tamarind syrup) and a mixture of superfine cane Sugar with ground white Cardamom & Iranian Saffron. For the curious, this is made by combining approximately ½ Cup cane Sugar, ¾ Tablespoon ground white Cardamom and ~13 threads of Saffron in a small food processor until all is incorporated and finely-ground. For the brulee flame: a Misto sprayer filled with a 2:1:1 mixture of Lemon Hart 151°, Angostura & <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/06/bitters-makes-it-better-part-ii.html">Honey Tangerine bitters</a>...</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><div><strong><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWKSDw5OfDI/AAAAAAAAAuM/OvW4wVOIscE/s1600-h/rosewaterricky6.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 114px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 204px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5287949505848572978" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWKSDw5OfDI/AAAAAAAAAuM/OvW4wVOIscE/s200/rosewaterricky6.jpg" /></a>Eastern Rosewater Rickey</span></strong></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">3 oz. Gin (Martin Miller's)</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1 barspoon: Rosewater</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">¼ oz. fresh Lime juice</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">¼ oz. fresh Tangerine juice</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">――</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Brulee in a mixing glass</em>:</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">6 Brandied Sour Cherries w/ Tamarind</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1 rounded barspoon: Cardamom-Saffron superfine Sugar (as above)</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">Bitters mist (as above)</span><span style="font-size:85%;"> </span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">――<br /><em><strong>Carefully</strong> brulee Cherries until superfine sugar caramelizes. Fill with ice and add remaining ingredients. Shake well & strain into a Collins glass filled with ice. Top with soda water & garnish with brandied sour Cherries. </em>Brilliant technique & drink Mr. Boudreau!</span></div><br /><div><strong>Curious Classics</strong></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWLov6K9O9I/AAAAAAAAAvk/RWH7PIYl4LM/s1600-h/Americano1.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 198px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 130px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5288044822253091794" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWLov6K9O9I/AAAAAAAAAvk/RWH7PIYl4LM/s200/Americano1.jpg" /></a>As I compounded all manner of beverages, a great many questions were asked about them and the history & craft of the cocktail in general. I was only too happy to oblige the curiosity, passing around copies of works like David Wondrich's <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0399532870?ie=UTF8&tag=anexerinhospa-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0399532870">Imbibe!</a>, </span><span style="font-size:85%;">Gary Regan's <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0609608843?ie=UTF8&tag=anexerinhospa-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0609608843">The Joy of Mixology</a> and Ted Haigh's (now rarified) <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1592530680?ie=UTF8&tag=anexerinhospa-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1592530680">Vintage Spirits & Forgotten Cocktails</a> for perusal. Likewise, when a drink was made which had some particularly interesting snippet of history behind it, I was quick to regale (<em>read</em>: try not to bore) my friends with a little story about each.<br /><br />Take for example, the class of drinks known as Corpse Revivers and "Eye-Openers", or the creation of the Japanese cocktail (very possibly my favorite cocktail) for visiting dignitaries in 1860 by Jerry Thomas. The innovation of the Florodora (a real crowd pleaser, by-the-by) for a stubborn chorus girl in 1901; even the Negroni's rise from the Americano (at left & below) came up at one point or another during the week:</span></div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><div><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWLowEdV5oI/AAAAAAAAAv0/mH6VTRx-BMM/s1600-h/CorpseReviver%232.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 179px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 116px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5288044825014560386" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWLowEdV5oI/AAAAAAAAAv0/mH6VTRx-BMM/s200/CorpseReviver%232.jpg" /></a>Corpse Reviver #2</strong></span></div><strong><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></strong></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1 oz. Gin (Plymouth)</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1 oz. Lillet Blanc</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1 oz. Cointreau</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1 oz. fresh Lemon juice</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1 drop: Absinthe (La Fee)</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Combine ingredients (save Absinthe) in a mixing glass with plenty of ice and shake well. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass, add drop of Absinthe (or a quality Pastis) & garnish with a stemless Cherry. </em>Try (& fail) to keep your friends from drinking it before photographing.</span></div><div><div><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWKZ88Cc5OI/AAAAAAAAAuk/pIB6dd2eYRQ/s1600-h/Japanese.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 109px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 165px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5287958184673993954" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWKZ88Cc5OI/AAAAAAAAAuk/pIB6dd2eYRQ/s200/Japanese.jpg" /></a>Japanese Cocktail</strong></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">2 oz. VSOP Brandy <strong>or</strong> VS Cognac</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Orgeat syrup</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">¼ oz. fresh Lime juice</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">4 dashes: homemade Boker's bitters (<strong>or </strong>substitute 2 dashes of Angostura bitters) </span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass with plenty of cracked ice & shake well. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a twist of fresh Lime.</em></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWKZ8S2p4qI/AAAAAAAAAuU/xo5fd_rofBY/s1600-h/Floradora1.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 211px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 144px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5287958173618660002" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWKZ8S2p4qI/AAAAAAAAAuU/xo5fd_rofBY/s200/Floradora1.jpg" /></a>Florodora</strong></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1½ oz. Gin (Plymouth or Boodles)</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">Juice of 1 fresh Lime</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">2 Teaspoons: Raspberry (or Blackberry) syrup</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">Ginger Ale (preferably <a href="http://www.twoatthemost.com/ginger-syrup">homemade</a>)</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Combine ingredients (save Ginger Ale) in a mixing glass with plenty of ice & shake </em>[typically this built & stirred; my 'berry syrup is quite thick so I tend to shake].<em> Strain into a highball glass filled with ice and fill with Ginger Ale. Garnish with a cherry & a slice of fresh Orange.</em></span></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWLQMgr86gI/AAAAAAAAAvM/L_8Qbr5W_sk/s1600-h/americano2.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 167px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 114px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5288017825837672962" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWLQMgr86gI/AAAAAAAAAvM/L_8Qbr5W_sk/s200/americano2.jpg" /></a>Americano</strong></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1½ oz. Sweet Vermouth (Carpano Antica Formula)</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1½ oz. Campari</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">Soda Water</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Build ingredients in a lowball glass filled with ice. Fill with soda and stir. Garnish with a long twist of fresh Orange or Lemon.</em></span></div><br /><div><strong>Experiments, Innovations & Smashing Samples</strong></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">As I'd stated previously, I had been hard at work preparing all kinds of ingredients - syrups, bitters, mixers of all sorts - to go alongside the prodigious quantity of booze I had procured & collected throughout the year. Now certain of the syrups (& drinks they create) I've mentioned here before in various articles, but among both the spirits & syrups are a number of recent additions which made for some fantastic drinks. As part of my association with the <a href="http://mixoloseum.com/blog/">Mixoloseum</a>, I have - as several posts here should indicate - been recieving samples of various spirits for experimentation, a feat which I rather gleefully carried out at every opportunity this week...</span></div><br /><div><strong><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWLQM7ZgEZI/AAAAAAAAAvU/Gm5EtVZfK0I/s1600-h/Blood%26Sand.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 184px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 151px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5288017833008042386" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWLQM7ZgEZI/AAAAAAAAAvU/Gm5EtVZfK0I/s200/Blood%26Sand.jpg" /></a>Yamazaki Whisky & Cocktails</span></strong></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">One of many cocktails calling for Orgeat syrup, the delightful Cameron's Kick is something of a unique item, seeing as it utilizes both Scotch & Irish Whisk(e)y's as its' base spirits. The Yamazaki 12-year, produced by the Suntory company of Japan, is similarly unique - a "Scotch" not from Scotland, but nonetheless quite delightful for use in cocktails. It makes a <em>killer</em> Blood & Sand (as pictured at left) likely due to the smooth hints of dried fruit (Cherries?) in its flavor, so I thought to try it out in a Pistachio & Rose-accented variation on the venerable Cameron's Kick. After the first, I had to make them three at a time, so it would seem the combination worked rather well (<strong>©</strong>): </span><br /></div><br /><div><strong><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWKs2NnxhDI/AAAAAAAAAu0/Sc3oL6VRS5I/s1600-h/KikkunoCameronpour1.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 134px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5287978959855780914" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWKs2NnxhDI/AAAAAAAAAu0/Sc3oL6VRS5I/s200/KikkunoCameronpour1.jpg" /></a>Kikku no Cameron</span></strong></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">2½ oz. Yamazaki 12 year Whisky</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. Tullamore Dew Irish Whiskey</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">¾ oz. Pistachio Orgeat syrup (see below)</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">¾ oz. fresh Lemon juice</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Combine ingredients in a mixing glass with plenty of ice and shake well. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a twist of fresh Orange.</em></span> <span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong></strong></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Pistachio Orgeat</strong><br />6¼ Cups: Pistachios,<em> peeled</em><br />3¾ Cups: Water<br />3 Cups: white Sugar<br />1½ Tablespoons: Rosewater<br />½ Tablespoons: Orange flower Water<br /><em>Prepare as a normal </em></span><a href="http://www.artofdrink.com/2006/02/orgeat-syrup.php"><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Orgeat syrup</em></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><em> then cool, bottle & add 2½ oz. Brandy. Makes just under 1½ Liters of syrup. </em></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><div><strong><span style="font-size:85%;">Kilo Kai Rum & Cocktails</span></strong></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">I've always been rather so-so about supposed 'spiced' rums - they always fall short of the mark for me in just about everything but a Rum & Coke. Even worse, many examples often have a cloyingly-artificial flavor about them. Not so with Kilo Kai, a relatively new, lightly-aged spiced rum (sadly, not yet distributed in the NJ-area) produced in Curaçao. Posessing a great spice character - redolent of Vanilla and Cinnamon, my first thought was of some of the Tiki spice combinations popularized by Donn the Beachcomber - blending Cinnamon and Grapefruit for example. Several of these combinations worked so well, I ran dry on the stuff. While I'll have to wait for a few months until it becomes available, for those of you who can get it, give either of these libations a try (<strong>©</strong>):</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWKs2tutSjI/AAAAAAAAAu8/UoPjfpL9F7E/s1600-h/RedVelvet1.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 208px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 142px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5287978968474798642" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWKs2tutSjI/AAAAAAAAAu8/UoPjfpL9F7E/s200/RedVelvet1.jpg" /></a>Donn's Red Velvet</strong></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1¼ oz. Kilo Kai spice Rum</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1¼ oz. Jamaica </span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">¼ oz. fresh Pink Grapefruit juice</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">2 Teaspoons: <a href="http://www.kaiserpenguin.com/jet-pilot/">Cinnamon syrup</a></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1 dash: Peychaud's bitters</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1 dash: Fee's Whiskey Barrel-Aged bitters</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Combine ingredients in a mixing glass with plenty of ice & shake well. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a twist of fresh Grapefruit. </em></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWLowmUfRNI/AAAAAAAAAv8/nQOCBzl192M/s1600-h/kilokai3.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 181px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 118px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5288044834104231122" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SWLowmUfRNI/AAAAAAAAAv8/nQOCBzl192M/s200/kilokai3.jpg" /></a>The Tropica Spice</strong></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1¾ oz. Kilo Kai Spiced Rum</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">¼ oz. JW&N Overproof Rum</span></div></div><div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">½ oz. fresh Orange juice<br />¼ oz. fresh Pink Grapefruit juice</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1 barspoon: Cardamom-Saffron Sugar</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1¼ oz. Grapefruit soda (Jarritos)</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Prepare a 6-7 oz. glass by rimming it with Cardamom Saffron sugar and filling it halfway with cracked ice. Build ingredients in prepared glass, top with grapefruit soda & stir briefly.</em></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">Other (sadly undocumented) experiments included a pair of Volcano Bowls utilizing a 3:1 Jaggery (Indian plam sugar) syrup in place of the usual Maple syrup - the creation of at least one of which was broadcast to a friend-of-a-friend in Brazil via webcam. The <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTqBWsYs4DM&feature=related">finger-lighting trick</a> works <em>quite</em> well by-the-by. A bottle of BarSol's wonderful Quebranta Pisco arrived on my doorstep on the day before my departure, and as I had just finished making a batch of Gomme syrup, I set up a Pineapple for a lovely punchbowl full of Pisco Punch. A number of succesful experiments took place involving a Thai Bird's Eye chili & Tamarind syrup paired with Gin, Cherry Heering & Blood Orange as well as number of other innovations which might have been lost (or at least un-photographed) in the weeds of serving forty-odd folks drinks for five days. </span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Nevertheless, some wonderous photos were taken (thanks to all who took care of that), a positively-brilliant time was had every day, night & early morning and many happy memories were made. Cheers and thanks to all who attended, and I look forward to doing it all again next year...</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Cheers & may everyone's new year be better than that which came before it! Except for those lousy Carolingians...</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-45380704909835858082008-12-30T02:26:00.001-05:002008-12-31T14:25:24.428-05:00What are you doing New Years...<span style="font-size:85%;">...New Years...Eve? What indeed? Feel free to pass along your pre or post party specs in the comments section.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">For my own year-end festivities, I'll be spending it (and the four days what follow) 'down the shore as we so stereotypically say here in 'Jersey. Specifically Ocean City, NJ. In a lovely guest house, behind a well-stocked bar, with a semi-rotating cast of forty-odd good <a href="http://bheithir.org/">friends</a> of the <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/08/what-is-it-good-for.html">SCA</a> persuasion...</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">I've been laying down all manner of syrups for the past three days - everything from fresh batches of my usual standbys (Simple syrup(s), <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/05/flirting-with-flora-hibiscus.html">Hibiscus Grenadine</a>, <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/05/mxmo-xxvii-rum.html">Cardamom 'Ale</a>, <a href="http://www.onnetworks.com/videos/cocktails-on-the-fly/jamaica?autoplay=true">Jamaica</a>, Orgeat &c.) to new experiments in variation (Pistachio Orgeat; 3:1 Jaggery, Bird's Eye Chili-Tamarind, Gomme syrups, etc.). I've bottled up a batch of Ginger Ale soda syrup, a Tangerine-spiked twist on Jeffrey Morgenthaler's <a href="http://www.jeffreymorgenthaler.com/2008/how-to-make-your-own-tonic-water/">Tonic</a> syrup, a wintertime variation on Kaiserpenguin's latest <a href="http://www.kaiserpenguin.com/homemade-syrups/">Falernum</a> and a few other goodies. Liquor's all procured & packed, gear and glassware is cleaned and packed. Produce gets bought in the morning and...I'm off. I'm sure I'm forgetting a bunch of stuff...</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Anyway, I'll be sure to post some highlights of the event here as I'm able - hopefully a video or three.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Cheers & Happy New Years!</span>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-31127450019820167762008-12-19T21:30:00.017-05:002008-12-21T16:11:44.723-05:00Los Afrodisíacos...<span style="font-size:85%;">...I've sampled in my time, or at least those what claim to be, have been...numerous. Needless to say, when the marketing pitch for a particular spirit cites its' primary flavor component as one such substance, I'm at once intensely skeptical & mildly interested... </span><br /><div><div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><br /><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e4/Tunera_diffusa_2.jpg"></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SU3btN64jkI/AAAAAAAAAtM/uLx1QrAOpg4/s1600-h/damiana.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 175px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 104px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282119507852693058" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SU3btN64jkI/AAAAAAAAAtM/uLx1QrAOpg4/s200/damiana.jpg" /></a>The <em>aphrodisiac</em> in question here is Damiana, a small shrub indigenous to Mexico, Central & South America, with tiny yellow flowers and dark green, somewhat bitter, leaves which slightly resemble Holly in appearance. This herb has been noted since Mayan times as a mild stimulant - particularly in the bedroom, as it were - as well as a cure-all for all manner of mild health issues. Modern science has <em>suggested</em> that certain concentrations of the substance are useful in the pursuit of pleasure, as well as some other uses of nominally-less interest; herbalists are fairly quick to tout its' benefits. I have sampled teas made from the dried leaves of this peculiar plant in the past and, quite frankly, remain skeptical of its purported effects. It is however, possessed of an interesting, if bitter, herbal flavor - not entirely dissimilar to a vegetal Chamomile - which is <strong>greatly</strong> enhanced & improved by the addition of a little sugar or honey. </span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><br /><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SU3bszi1duI/AAAAAAAAAtE/USSfWUlK0_Y/s1600-h/Agavero%2520Bottle%2520-%2520Low.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 100px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 170px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282119500772505314" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/SU3bszi1duI/AAAAAAAAAtE/USSfWUlK0_Y/s200/Agavero%2520Bottle%2520-%2520Low.jpg" /></a>The <em>spirit</em> in question here is called <a href="http://www.agavero.com/">Agavero</a>, a <em>licor</em> (i.e. liqueur) which hails from the Los Camichines Distillery in Jalisco, Mexico. It is produced by combining limousin oak-aged Reposado and Añejo Tequilas; into which an extract of the flowers (<em>not</em> the leaves) from the aforementioned botanical Damiana is then blended. The resulting infusion (which is sweetened) is a variation on one which has been traditionally-made for a long time in Mexico and which remains popular there - particularly in the states which make up the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baja_California_Peninsula">Baja California</a> peninsula. </span></div><br /><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">Agavero is a slightly thick, extremely-sweet liqueur that weighs in at 32% ABV; similar in proof to a triple-sec or curaçao, but is <em>not</em> a Tequila. In tasting I found it far too sweet to be enjoyed neat, as many have recommended. While it does taste of (unusually-sweet) Tequila, the bitter botanical taste of Damiana I had expected just weren't there; instead something else - a light flavor vaguely suggestive of Chamomile - presented itself. </span></div><br /><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">Agavero has seen some success in cookery though, with a number of <a href="http://www.agavero.com/dianebrown_holiday.html#valentine">recipes for meals</a> developed by cookbook author <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0974937363?ie=UTF8&tag=anexerinhospa-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=0974937363">Diane Brown</a>. The bulk of these recipes appear to involve caramelizing the sugars in said spirit, which may very well add a measure of complexity to it's flavor profile - likely letting it blend well with certain foods. That said, the spirit is interesting, but I feel that its' use in cocktails should be relegated to that of a modifier; particularly one which adds sweetness to a given drink. Replacing the triple-sec in a Margarita, for example, sounds like an interesting start... </span></div><br /><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">To modify the liqueur's overall flavor I came up with the following variation on the classic <a href="http://cocktaildb.com/recipe_detail?id=403">Calvados Cocktail</a>; made with Agavero, fresh Tangerine & Laird's Bonded Apple Brandy. The strength of the Laird's, combined with a heavy jolt of citrus bitters, rounds off the intense sweetness of the Agavero, allowing its slight herbal quality to interact in a far more-balanced way with the other ingredients. The resulting cocktail was pleasantly approachable - bittersweet with some interesting spicey notes - and overall, quite a nice way to enjoy this liqueur (<strong>©</strong>): </span></div><br /><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Florecer de Desierto</strong></span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1½ oz. Laird's Bonded Apple Brandy</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1½ oz. fresh Tangerine juice</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">1 oz. Agavero Licor de Tequila</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;">2¾ Teaspoons: <a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/06/bitters-makes-it-better-part-ii.html">Honey Tangerine</a> <strong>or</strong> Regan's Orange bitters</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Combine ingredients in a mixing glass with plenty of ice & shake well. Fine strain into a chilled cocktail glass & garnish with a (knotted) twist of Lemon.</em></span></div><br /><div><em><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></em></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><br /><div><span style="font-size:85%;">Cheers & Enjoy!</span></div><div><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><br /><div><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>In the interest of full disclosure, samples of Agavero were provided for use in writing this article.</em></span></div></div></div>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-34690167549568787022008-12-10T08:01:00.002-05:002008-12-17T03:04:12.796-05:00Here's How! - Sourcing Ingredients<span style="font-size:85%;">It’s no secret that I (and many of my fellow cocktail bloggers) am wont to toss syrups, bitters, infusions and all manner of other feats of mixoloical cleverness with almost reckless abandon into our recipes. The most frequent comments we seem to get on posts including such things are questions about ingredients: “Sounds great, but where do I find X, Y & Z?” And while the Tiki Cult™ is guiltier than most, I’m right there with them… </span><br /><div><p align="left"><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></p><p align="left"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/ST3lwPVPsYI/AAAAAAAAAsI/0MTQ7OS5yNo/s1600-h/allSpices57final.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 183px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 132px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277626955260211586" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/ST3lwPVPsYI/AAAAAAAAAsI/0MTQ7OS5yNo/s200/allSpices57final.jpg" /></a>To be honest we’ve all been in that boat at one point or another – it’s not like we <em>grow</em> Gentian, Sugarcane or Allspice in our backyards after all (well, <em>most</em> of us), and to boot, many of the components of these ingredients can be expensive to purchase. So, what follows is a handy little guide to sourcing some of the more esoteric ingredients you may encounter here, at the </span><a href="http://blog.mixoloseum.com/"><span style="font-size:85%;">Mixoloseum</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">, or any of our member’s (or other) pages: </span></p><div align="left"><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>The Interweb</strong><br />A phenomenal resource, accessible from the comfort of one’s own home no less! It bears mentioning that some of the sites you’ll find listed here fall within categories listed further down, except they also offer their products online. Here are a number of websites from which you might source all manner of interesting or rare ingredients without getting out of your bathrobe, or breaking the bank:<br /></span></div><ul><li><div align="left"><strong><a href="http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/"><span style="font-size:85%;">Mountain Rose Herbs</span></a></strong><span style="font-size:85%;"> - Based out of Eugene, OR, this company carries almost every herb, root or spice a cocktailian could ever need, in a number of quantities & most are organic/wild-harvested. An invaluable resource for rare or hard-to-find bitters, tincture, infusion or syrup ingredients, they also offer a variety of house tea blends. If some prices seem a touch high, it’s due to quantity – even their smaller sizes tend to be far more than the average hobbyist could use at once.<br /></span></div><li><div align="left"><strong><a href="http://www.spicesetc.com/"><span style="font-size:85%;">Spices Etc.</span></a></strong><span style="font-size:85%;"> - Based out of Savannah, GA, a good resource for standard (and some more exotic) spices and herbs, with a great selection of interesting items like dried fruits, citric acid & flavored sugars. Their best value lies in a variety of dried citrus peels - available in large strips rather than ground – which makes them a good source for bitters-making.<br /></span></div><li><div align="left"><strong><a href="http://tenzingmomo.com/Qstore/d000007.htm"><span style="font-size:85%;">Tenzing Momo</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> -</span></strong><span style="font-size:85%;"> An apothecary shop based out of the Pike Place market in Seattle, WA, this simple webpage conceals a great resource for some especially rare ingredients – one of the only vendors I know to carry Cinchona (for Tonic) or Camphor, for example. Prices will appear especially low – be warned that this is due to quantities - as near as I can tell, each herbal item is sold in 1-ounce increments. </span></div><li><div align="left"><a href="http://www.auntiearwenspices.com/"><strong><span style="font-size:85%;">Auntie Arwen’s</span></strong></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> - An apothecary & herbalist (as well a regular merchant at the </span><a href="http://rookielibations.blogspot.com/2008/08/what-is-it-good-for.html"><span style="font-size:85%;">Pennsic Wars</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">), Arwen’s carries a large selection of herbs, roots, flora, spices & extracts equal to any listed above. Check out their flavored sugars while you're at it; they are incredible. Their true specialty, however, lies in crafting specialized blends of these – often on a <a href="http://www.auntiearwenspices.com/custom.php">custom/to-order</a> basis; need a ‘mango-white pepper-grains of paradise’ blend? Arwen’s got you covered…<br /></span></div><li><div align="left"><a href="http://stores.ebay.com/Vanilla-Products-USA"><strong><span style="font-size:85%;">Sweet Vanilla Products USA</span></strong></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> - The wonderfully-resourceful Tiare of <em><a href="http://amountainofcrushedice.wordpress.com/">A Mountain of Crushed Ice</a></em> discovered this little gem – an eBay store devoted almost exclusively to the sale of Vanilla beans and their byproducts. Ordinarily commanding a king’s ransom for miniscule quantities, sourcing this delicious orchid byproduct is now both easy & <strong>incredibly</strong> inexpensive.<br /></span></div><li><div align="left"><strong><a href="http://www.feebrothers.com/Page.asp?Script=2"><span style="font-size:85%;">Fee Brother’s</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> -</span></strong><span style="font-size:85%;"> If the homemade route isn’t your thing, Fee’s, based out of Rochester, NY is a wonderful resource for commercial syrups, bitters & flavorings. The company has been operating since the early-1800’s & orders are on 60-day net, so bulk purchases are the way to go - though their products are also sold elsewhere at a slight markup.<br /></span></div><li><div align="left"><strong><a href="http://www.kegworks.com/home.php?cat=1077"><span style="font-size:85%;">Kegworks.com</span></a></strong><span style="font-size:85%;"> - A great resource for just about everything & anything cocktail-related, both for equipment as well as commercial mixers, bitters, syrups and other interesting products. Especially useful for those of you who’d rather not take the homemade route, though some of the crazier ingredients many mixologists use just aren’t produced commercially.<br /></span></div><li><div align="left"><strong><a href="http://www.forgottenflavours.com/60.html"><span style="font-size:85%;">Forgotten Flavors</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> -</span></strong><span style="font-size:85%;"> A German company (with a German webpage) who commercially produces a pair of hard-to-find cocktail ingredients – Falernum syrup and Swedish Punsch. Quality seems to be their main concern, and if you’d rather not make either ingredient yourself, give theirs a go.</span></div></li></ul><div align="left"><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Cultural/Ethnic Groceries</strong><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/ST3lwgJbcFI/AAAAAAAAAsQ/svk2D4_cqnU/s1600-h/closeSpices48final.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 197px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 135px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277626959774052434" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/ST3lwgJbcFI/AAAAAAAAAsQ/svk2D4_cqnU/s200/closeSpices48final.jpg" /></a>These are among my favorite places to shop - and not just for cocktail supplies! Various world cultures often utilize flavors, whether through spices or other ingredients which are often unknown or unpopular in the more mainstream culinary culture; these stores cater to these flavors and the individuals who enjoy them. I highly recommend investigating your area for ethnic stores of all sorts – anywhere there is a significant community of immigrants or individuals with strong cultural backgrounds one can find businesses like these.<br /><br />Forming ‘working’ relationships with the employees or proprietors (many times one & the same) of such establishments is also recommended – you’ll often get deals of the sort generally only offered to members of the communities they serve, not to mention it often helps to have someone who can read the foreign languages used on the packages. Even without such arrangements, one will often find ingredients at fairly unheard-of prices when compared to those at your average grocery store. Here are just a few examples of stores like this:<br /></span></div><ul><li><div align="left"><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Middle Eastern -</strong> Spices, often expensive ones like Green Cardamom, Ras al Hanout or Saffron are atypically-cheap staples of places like these. Likewise, teas, coffees and interestingly-flavored beverages of all kinds are often easy to find. As many Middle Eastern cultures utilize complex & unusual sweeteners or flavorings in aspects of their cuisine – especially beverages - one can find commercially-bottled syrups (Almond with Orange-flower water (i.e. Orgeat), Tamarind, Date, Rose & Honey to name a few). High-quality Rose or Orange-flower waters, as well as flavored or artisanal Vinegars are also on offer.<br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong></strong></span></div><li><div align="left"><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Hispanic & Caribbean -</strong> That tiny corner bodega often conceals a treasure trove of flavorful ingredients. Chiles, dried or fresh, fruit Nectars & Juices, Sodas (often sweetened with sugar; like Mexican Coke, Malta, Barritt’s, Jarritos or Ting), dried Hibiscus (called Sorrel or Jamaica). Whole spices like Allspice, Anise or Achiote seeds and produce like Passionfruit, Sugarsop, Mango, Coconut, whole Sugarcane & Ginger are available quite inexpensively.<br /></span></div><li><div align="left"><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Asian -</strong> Rare & often strange (from a Western standpoint) ingredients are the watchwords in these establishments. Hard-to-find ingredients like Yuzu juice, Lemongrass, (high-quality) Coconut milk, unusual waters, tinctures and extracts like Jasmine, Rose, or Ginger are common. Teas of just about every stripe – particularly high-grade green & white varieties like Macha or Gunpowder will also be fairly common. Finally, many establishments like these will either have an in-house herbalist or will be able to recommend one in your area – another helpful resource.<br /></span></div><li><div align="left"><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Indian -</strong> Here it’s all about the spices: items like Cardamom, Clove, Coriander, Mace, Allspice & Cinnamon are often available at unthinkably-low prices & in large quantities. Likewise, dried fruits such as Dates, Figs and Oranges, as well as dozens of varieties of nuts & seeds (whole, blanched, chopped &c.) are often offered. Similar to Middle Eastern shops, unusual flavorings and sweeteners like Gur or Jaggery (date palm sugar), commercial beverage syrups like Thandai (a spicy Orgeat variant) and hard-to-find fruit Nectars (Passionfruit or Pomegranate) abound.</span></div></li></ul><div align="left"><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Fresh/Farmer’s Markets</strong><br />As anyone from California will attest, this is the best way to get fresh fruit, vegetables and often herbs too – often for fantastic prices. Once you’ve found a good farmer’ market you’ll never want to go back to the supermarket again - so be warned. Offerings at this sort of establishment vary wildly with season, location and suppliers. Look for a market which (ideally) knows exactly where & from what farm(s) their produce is harvested – even better a market run by the individuals who grow the produce themselves - and stocks particularly-seasonal items only within the appropriate period. As with the ethnic/cultural spots listed above, forming a ‘working relationship’ with the folks in charge can be extremely beneficial.<br /><br /><strong>Health & Nutrition/”Alternate Lifestyle”</strong><br />If you can stomach the overwhelming scent of patchouli for a bit, checking out the local ‘hippy shop’ or health-nut haven can result in some impressive finds, both equipment & ingredients-wise. Handy tools like juicers, mortar & pestles, blender balls and pollen presses can be found in locations like these. Also, extracts, whole herbs and spice/tea blends, interesting Honeys, Agave nectar and other items are often for sale; especially in “New Age”-type shops. Just be careful with extracts – be certain what you’re buying is both pure & of ‘food-grade’. Many shops like this maintain listings of their offerings & will sometimes ship via mail even if they’re not represented online, so requesting a catalog or ordering one through phone or mail can be helpful.<br /><br />Have a favorite source or way of procuring for hard-to-find or unusual ingredients? Be sure to let me know about it in the Comments section.<br /></span></div><br /><p align="left"><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></p><div align="left"><span style="font-size:85%;">Cheers & Enjoy!<br /></span></div><div align="left"><br /><em><span style="font-size:85%;">I have no affiliation, stake or ties to any sources specifically mentioned by name or link (save as a satisfied customer). This article has been cross-posted over at the </span><a href="http://blog.mixoloseum.com/"><span style="font-size:85%;">Mixoloseum</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> - whomever authorized this has undoubtedly been sacked...</span></em></div></div>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-912732517283336092.post-23033941768772904542008-12-08T10:20:00.024-05:002008-12-09T14:15:59.904-05:00A Comfortable Conflagration<span style="font-size:85%;">As I drove up to see some old friends this weekend past, the lightly-falling snow - the first of any consequence around here - got me thinking. I'm not big on being cold myself, so the change of the seasons from chilly and windy to windy, cold <em>and</em> wet has brought about the need for something that will send the chill packing & bring thoughts of warmer days to the forefront.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Peaches are among my favorite summertime produces; their flavor, in fact, exerts a very strong memory-association with warm summer afternoons for me. But for a December drink, why Peaches - haven't they been out of season for months, you ask? Indeed, but bear with me a moment. What really got me onto this whole notion was a bottle of the often-maligned 100° Southern Comfort which I knew my friends to possess; a higher-proof variation on the usual fruit & spice liqueur of the south. Said spirit, likely due to the increased alcohol content, asserts an even stronger suggestion of Peach flavor than it's lower-proofed cousin, making it an ideal base for the next step:<br /></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/ST1D4yOm4jI/AAAAAAAAAsA/jykMgss6Mn0/s1600-h/JerryThomas.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 145px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 128px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277448981182865970" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/ST1D4yOm4jI/AAAAAAAAAsA/jykMgss6Mn0/s200/JerryThomas.jpg" /></a>The Blue Blazer</strong></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">is a classic concoction of impressive presentation, excellent flavor and marvelous warming properties. Consisting of a healthy measure of cask-strength spirit, boiling water, lemon peel and sugar which is then <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSFHrP92Jy4">set alight & flung between two mugs</a>, it's mere creation will warm the room by a few degrees. But the usual 'Blazer is prepared with Scotch - which while an excellent addition to a winter warmer - might be difficult to blend into my peachy idea. Watery peaches didn't sound so appealing either, so the hot water would have to go...sort of:</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong>Genmaicha</strong> </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">is a delicious Japanese green tea which contains a bit of toasted brown rice. This feature takes the soft, grassy flavors of the tea in a whole new direction - adding a smoky, bittersweet aromatic element which is quite unique. Indeed, after playing with it here I have a number of plans for utilizing it in a Rhum or Cognac Punch in the future, but more on that some other time. Sampling the Genmaicha with SoCo yielded some favorable, if one-sided results - not quite the peach emphasis I desired. </span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Into the mix then came the next ingredient, an organic Peach nectar, gently warmed & added to the prepared tea. As said nectar is already sweetened, I tipped a heavy dash of Angostura bitters into the mixture to add a little complexity & reign-in the sugar. The final ingredients went into the glasses arrayed before me - a long twist of Orange peel paired with a heavy dash of Fernet Branca - a very tasty Italian amaro of great complexity. Now that the ingredients are all sorted out, what came next, you ask? Just this savory, if poorly-photographed, drink - redolent of warm peaches, caramel, spice & a discernable absence of the cold (<strong>©</strong>):</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/ST7CNTNuxeI/AAAAAAAAAsY/hhzQPLE9l5g/s1600-h/flaming_chris2.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 162px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 171px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277869347076752866" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NKEeZ_QvRIg/ST7CNTNuxeI/AAAAAAAAAsY/hhzQPLE9l5g/s200/flaming_chris2.jpg" /></a>Comfortable Conflagration</strong></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">6 oz. 100° Southern Comfort</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">2½ oz. Genmaicha tea</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">2½ oz. Peach nectar</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">2 dashes: Angostura bitters</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><em>In each Glass (makes 4):</em></strong></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1 long twist: fresh Orange peel</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1 Teaspoon: Fernet Branca</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1 Teaspoon: Nectar-Tea mixture, <em>hot</em></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><em>Preparation:</em></strong></span> <span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Brew Tea, pour into a small saucepan & combine with Nectar and bitters. Warm to a gentle simmer over gentle heat, stirring frequently. Meanwhile, warm four toddy glasses, mugs or whatever you've got on hand by rinsing them with boiling water. Add Orange peel, Fernet & hot Nectar-Tea mixture to prepared glasses. Warm a pair of well-insulated mugs with a rinse of boiling water & get ready for the show (I typically invoke the late J. Thomas for luck).</em></span><br /><strong><em><span style="font-size:85%;">Execution:</span></em></strong> <span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Add the hot five-ounce mixture of Tea, Nectar & bitters to one warmed mug. Pour the Southern Comfort on top of this, dim the lights & set aflame with a long match. Taking up your empty mug, <strong>carefully</strong> pour the flaming liquid from cup to cup approximately six times before extinguishing. Pour hot liquid into prepared glasses and stir briefly. Look cool, enjoy the applause (and the drink).</em></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Cheers & Enjoy!</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>If you o' gentle reader would like to attempt a Blue Blazer of any ilk, I must stress that both a pair of good insulated mugs and, most importantly, <strong>practice</strong> are essential. Practice the pour first with cold water, then move up to hot water - being <strong>extremely careful</strong> when you finally move to the flaming stuff. Setting up a metal tray with a little water, or at least a layer of wet towels, underneath the area you intend to make the drink is a fantastic idea. By-the-by, I take no responsibility for any injuries or property damage sustained attempting this feat...</em></span>Chris Stanleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18029981658585665962noreply@blogger.com0